Monday, May 12, 2014

Happily by Accident

As is usual on Mondays after work, I slowly rode my bicycle home. Usually this takes me about 10 minutes. This particular evening though, I had forgotten one important factor. Today was the second day of Semana Santa; Holy Week.

Easter is quite the festival here in Murcia, Spain. Streets are filled with people and the city becomes a maize; alive in its own right, leading people through the streets to where it wants you to go. Chairs align the road so that people can sit and enjoy the processions, unknowingly following a Spanish 'yellow brick road'.

The processions continued every day from the 13th of April this year to the 20th. They became more impressive as it got closer to Good Friday. Not all processions are equal though either. That Monday night's one was quite festive with the marching band and the Nazarenes in their KKK-like attire.

The Nazarenes dress in tunics and lead the procession, with torches lit, and candy-filled pouches in their coloured tunics. As they walk along, spectators are given sweets, biscuits or even hard-boiled eggs from the hidden bags of the Nazarenes that take part. They carry religious sculptures of Jesus, like an open air exhibition to famous artists like Francisco Salzillo.

Each day the Nazarenes wear different coloured tunics. Today was red. Tomorrow might be green or blue; each with a meaning. Each with a pointed hood. Each colour represents a parish in the city. Each day, a different parish represents the city.

Back to getting lost in the maize. As I said, I forgot that the processions would be taking place. I shouldn't have. I watched them set up the chairs on my way to work that afternoon. But I did; so... I had to find my way across the river to where I live. Every side street I took; every main street, every alley was bordered off with chairs. I could not help but be lead towards the centre of the city. Always finding my way back to the cathedral, the focal point of my small (and in that moment) anthill of a city.

Eventually, 40 minutes later, I decided to make my way back to my work and go around the bus station, near the edge of the city. Still, I had to work my way through the streets, past the many families enjoying the parade. I couldn't help but love this little place I call home right then. It's the people that make places special.

I missed the important days of Holy Week as I was in Italy, but I felt lucky to have gotten caught up in the build up of that week; happily by accident.

After Holy Week were two more important days for Murcia; 'Bando de la Huerta' and 'Entierro de la Sardina'. Bando is the first Tuesday after Easter and pretty much one big street party. It is actually a part of the spring festival but every local I have spoken to say it's just a good excuse to drink out in the open.

I was back from Italy just in time for Entierro de la Sardina - Burial of the Sardine. It is a traditional festival that closes the carnival celebrations. Another street parade with lots of music, beautiful dancers in amazing costumes and people throwing toys into the crowd for children.

As the parade came to a close and the festivities were ending, the giant sardine statue that was in the middle of the main intersection transformed into an enormous bonfire, like an offering to the gods for the coming year; concluding the spring holidays.

The Burial of the Sardine was over but I was waiting in anticipation for one more thing; the fireworks! I am child-like in a way; I still get over excited when I see an amazing firework display; as if magic really does exist in this world of ours for those few enchanting minutes. The fireworks that night were truly amazing. They left me in awe...

Murcia's two week holiday was over, but oh, what a wonderful way it was to end them.