Walking like an Egyptian

“Egypt is a great place for contrasts: splendid things gleam in the dust.”

- Gustave Flaubert

Camel ride into the Sahara Desert

We arrived to Cairo at about 8am, after too many hours in a minibus coming from Eilat, Israel. It wouldn't have taken so long but, because we had to bypass the Gaza strip, we had to go out of our way to reach the capital of Egypt. I decided not to wear a watch on the trip and with my phone packed away, I wasn't exactly sure of the time but the sky (and the air itself) still had that sleepy feel to it; when the colours we see are a dim shade of their brighter midday self. As the Museum of Cairo opened, we entered; grateful to enter before the long lines started.

Just chilling with Sphinx. No biggie

Travelling to a country that is recovering from a revolution means that it wise to travel with a company. Our guided tour included many things; we had an armed escort where ever we went for example. Our entourage was made up of 3 tourists, our guide, our driver and the policeman. My friend and I were travelling together from Palestine but the other girl had come alone, a Peruvian girl who had basic English. We decided that it was probably a good opportunity to practice our Spanish with her. Little did we know that we would only be speaking in Spanish for the next two days! Our wonderful guide, Nasser, could speak some Spanish too, and because we were such a tiny group, he tried to compensate for us as much as he could, and when he wasn't able to, we would try pick up the slack. My brain was dead by the end of that trip. Not speaking in my mother tongue in a foreign country that doesn't even speak that language? Not an easy feat! But we managed just fine :)

An eye-sore reminder of the revolution

Signs of the revolution were everywhere. A blackened shell of what was once a government building was right next to the museum. During the riots in 2011, that particular building was targeted because it belonged to Mubarak's political party. Other signs of the revolution is how quiet the tourist sites are and the military spotted around. Vendors said that what they are making now has more than halved since after the rebellion took place. When you whole income is invested in the tourist trade, that can devastate your way of life, but Nasser told us that Cairo is slowly making its come back as a tourist destination.


Poverty haunts the streets of the city. Coming from the opposite side of the continent, I expected the city to be a twin to Johannesburg; Jozi being a city knowing both wealth and destitution. It is not though. In many ways, I find this city extremely difficult to write about because I experienced one of the happiest days of my life there but, at the exact same time, it was a rude awakening as to how so many live. I equate most cities to a beehive; everyone busy doing their own little work, making the city function in perfect harmony. Cairo is an anthill. With a population of about 7 million, that's not really surprising, however the way the city runs is nothing like I've ever seen before. Somehow it works though, with every resident making the city the unique place it is. Either way though, I have so many things to say that I cannot hesitate at trying to explain myself to the best of my ability.

The Pyramids of Giza

After the museum, we made our way to the 3 Pyramids Papyrus Institute where, I'm ashamed to say, I fell into the tourist trap and bought a lovely Egyptian calendar that I have no idea how to interpret but looks just gorgeous and a little alluring on my wall. Being on a guided tour means that you are taken to these kinds of places that you would not otherwise stop at. I don't usually buy grand souvenirs like that, but my will went away with me. YOLO, you know? I am the worst when it comes to falling prey to a charming salesman. That's probably why I bought 3 bottles of famous Egyptian essence that I honestly don't need, but was insistent on buying while I was there. It doesn't help that everyone is so friendly and hospitable.

Arabic culture demands a show of generous hospitality. Nasser told us, "You are free to choose, but not to refuse." I was overwhelmed by how kind and giving these people are. It is part of their custom; it is a matter of honour and duty. I have had my fair share of adventures and my guard is always up as is needed for a solo female traveller. Yet I was treated with unexpected  respect and kindness everywhere I went in the Middle East, even as I dressed as conservatively as possible to avoid disrespect and unwanted attention; I was never made to feel that way.

First glimpse of the pyramids through the hazy pollution

We finally made our way to the pyramids! The moment we had been patiently waiting for. And what an awesome spectacle it was. Now, I say 'awesome' in truest meaning of the word; I was in awe. I first laid my eyes upon them from across the city while in the bus. Because the air is so polluted, we only got a hazy glimpse of them. When we eventually reached them, we could only simply gaze at their majesty. They are bigger than you expect. You can't climb the stones easily; steps have been made for tourists to climb onto the structures. As you stand on the golden blocks, which were once covered by smooth white limestone, you can sincerely believe that each took about 20 years to be built.

My scarf was always around my shoulders

There are 6 pyramids in Giza, which lie on the outskirts of Cairo and the three great pyramids there, are the most famous of them all, being the largest of roughly 160 ancient Egyptian tombs that have been found. The 3 great pyramids, and 3 lesser, sit right up against the city. To get those wonderful picturesque photos, you have to ride on a camel into the Sahara Desert and look back to see them at a distance. Riding a camel is not easy, let me tell you. You think it's like riding a horse. No. They are lovable creatures though, albeit a tad smelly. As I got the rhythm of the animal's gait, I was able to appreciate that this was a way of life. Plus, that was just another thing I could tick off my very long bucket list. This holiday was proving to be very successful in terms of fulfilling my dreams.

Access to the Sphinx has lessened over the years

After we took in our fill of the view of the pyramids, we had to pay our respects to another famous monument; the Great Sphinx of Giza. The regal monolith looks onto the modern city, with a few of Pizza Hut and KFC; a paradox if I ever saw one. Missing its nose and beard, he is often mistaken for a she, as legend states in Greek mythology. It was a lot smaller than I expected, standing only 20m high and yet it still the biggest monolith of its kind. I suppose that having this mysterious, imposing image in your mind is always grander and more spectacular than what reality delivers. But that being said, by no means was seeing the Sphinx any sort of disappointment. On the contrary, it was the perfect way to end our first day in Egypt.

Day one concluded by falling asleep in our lovely hotel by 9pm, listening to the cacophony of hoots and beeps from the cars and taxis on the main road below. Exhaustion overwhelmed us and sleep came easily. Going on a sightseeing holiday does that to a person; the actual travelling part of travelling is taxing. Over the next few days we napped where we could, fighting to maintain sufficient energy for the adventures that that day held. But those are stories for another day...

A beautiful Egyptian winter's day

Holiday in the Holy Land

“Jerusalem is a port city on the shore of eternity.”

- Yehuda Amichai 

Looking over Temple Mount

I found myself  upon entering the Old City, on the morning of Christmas Day, via Damascus Gate, one of seven (and main) entrances which lead into the walled area that separates the Old City from modern Jerusalem. I had no preconceptions of what to expect, not wanting to be disappointed or amazed by what I saw. This was my attitude for the next few days as I travelled a little around the Middle East. And let me just tell you, dear reader, that I was so surprised, by so many different things. 

Damascus Gate

Jerusalem is home to the three major Abrahamic religions, meaning the religions that stem from the story of Abraham from back in the good old days where people were asked to sacrifice their sons and chat with burning bushes. Judaism, Islam and Christianity are considered western religions but primarily, they all share the patriarchal story of Abraham. (Why they have so many problems when they've all got the same dad, I don't know.)

The city is divided into 4 uneven quarters: Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. On Christmas Day I visited the most famous sites that Jerusalem is renowned for.

The Muslim Quarter
As we went through Damascus Gate, we entered the Muslim Quarter. With children playing in the streets and tourists taking photos and absorbing the beautiful sites (I include myself in that sentiment), we made our way to the top of the Austrian Hospice, a pilgrim hostel. Entrance is free and people go to the roof to take incredible photos of the panoramic views of Temple Mount and Damascus Gate. Probably the cities most iconic landmark lies on Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock. It is Islam's oldest example of Islamic architecture. Temple Mount itself though, has significance for all three religions and has been used as a religious site for thousands of years.

Panoramic view from the roof of the Austrian Hospice

The Jewish Quarter
As we made our way towards the Jewish area of the city, it became quite noticeable. The whole vibe of the alleys change, not exactly something you can put your finger on but is  subtly evident if you look for it; the food and types of souvenirs that are sold, etc.

The Jewish Quarter holds the Western Wall; the holiest site for people of the Jewish faith as it is the only part of the original temple that was destroyed (where Temple Mount stands now) as Jerusalem was invaded and conquered over and over as the multitude of years went by. Jews, and other non-Muslims, are not allowed to pray openly on Temple Mount as it is controlled by the Muslims. This makes the western wall is the most sacred place to engage in public prayer.

The wall is separated for men and women and, as is normal for all holy sites, it is integral to dress modestly. I noticed that people were walking backwards from the wall; it is customary, as followers of the faith do not want to turn their back on it and therefore, show any disrespect to the sanctity to the holy place.

As you walk closer to the wall you see that every nook and cranny is filled with tiny prayer notes. It a centuries old tradition and the wall is cleared only twice a year where they are buried on the Mount of Olives, another place of reverence in Jerusalem. As I'm not at all religious but wanted to show my respect, I didn't get too close to the wall; not wanting to interrupt others. With so many people pressed up against the facade, and wanting to leave to see the other parts of the city, we moved towards the Christian Quarter.








The Christian Quarter
As it was Christmas Day, I expected there to be a mass of people but there weren't; Bethlehem being the place of choice (better to celebrate at the place of Jesus' birth than the site of his death, I guess). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is venerated to be where he was crucified and buried. The church is separated and controlled by different factions of the Christian kingdom. For example, the Greek Orthodox section is decorated completely different to the Armenian Orthodox section.

Graffiti on the door of the Christian church

My family is quite religious, so for my grandmothers, I went to the Altar of Crucifixion and, like so many before and will after me, I went on my knees to put my hands on the spot which marks where the cross once stood. Even for a non-believer like myself, it was a humbling experience; to say that I stood in a place where a man was killed and changed the world from what it was to what it is now.
 I didn't pay much mind to the modern city, only to travel in between Palestine, Egypt and Jordan (as you can't go anywhere from within the West Bank). From what I did see though, the city is modern, a metropolis like any other in Europe except for the fact that everywhere is a ghost town on Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest. 

I've always wanted to visit Jerusalem but now that I think about it, I'm not even sure why. I'm not particularly religious and my knowledge of the city was next to nothing. All that being said though, I'm really glad I went. Without realising the significance, my whole journey to the Middle East was eye-opening and self-expanding. What do I mean by that? "A mind, once stretched by a new idea, cannot return to its original dimensions." All that I learnt while I was there, about the political situation, about different cultures and about myself, has changed me somehow. Like a character in a video game, I've levelled up. Feels good :)

Bunting's Map of the World depicting at the centre.

The Occupation Situation

  “How much longer is the world willing to endure this spectacle of wanton cruelty?”
- Bertrand Russell

Graffiti on the Separation Wall

As a South African, I've heard the word 'Apartheid' very often. It's a dark, haunting story that we have in our past that we carry with us to make sure we do not make the same mistakes as our fathers. I didn't expect to see the word in Israel and yet there it was, staring at me like I was back at home, more than 20 years ago. 'Apartheid' is an Afrikaans word meaning 'the state of being apart'; a word that should no longer have any present significance and yet there it was, staring at me in the face.

Many people asked me why I was going to Israel in the first place. I answered, "well why not." "Because there was a war going on?" This is true. I was asked what I knew of the conflict and to be honest, next to nothing. War, that's what I knew. Something about Gaza. Although that ended in August. But I was invited to go. So I went.

In general, I lead a very sheltered life. I live a bubble where I don't let the real world with its real problems get to me. I'm a very emotional person and tend to stress about things I cannot help, therefore I shy away from the news and media, knowing that it will do nothing but upset me. As well as that, I tend to keep my opinions neutral about things; preferring to see both sides of a story than get actively and emotionally involved in something. After visiting and experiencing the very little that I did, I don't think I can ever be indifferent ever again. And so I decided to write about it.

I had to  remember that I wasn't specifically going to be in Israel, but in Ramallah, Palestine, except I wasn't allowed to call it that. I had to remember to call the area the West Bank. How confusing. It's because some people would say that there is no such place as Palestine on any present map. Do these people not exist? The only thing I knew about the difficult situation was that war has been ravaging the land for longer than I have been alive. I paid mind to all advice that came my way.

Border Patrol
Right. So I arrived to the airport preparing to be grilled by border patrol. Nope. Just a few questions and I was on my way. How anticlimactic! I'd been mentally prepping myself to be interviewed like they do in the movies, but no; the lady that helped was nice and friendly and wished me a merry Christmas. Well that was easier than expected. Off to a good start. I proceeded to make my way to Jerusalem.

This wasn't the case for every security check we went through though. As we went in and out of the country to visit Egypt and Jordan, we were questioned a few times; some more pleasant than others. Upon arrival from Egypt, I was questioned three times by three different people, all asking the same questions: Are you traveling alone? How do you know your friend? How long do you plan on staying in Israel? Where are you staying in Israel? My personal favorite though, what do you think about the conflict about Israel and Palestine? Really, Lady? Do you really think you'll get an honest answer from me about that one? After all that I've seen and gone through while being here? Insert a very vague, innocent answer here instead. That particular border check took 2 hours, but everyone was pleasant; just doing their job which I can respect. Keeping your country safe is so important nowadays.

I didn't appreciate how I was handled when I returned from Jordan though, like a second class citizen. In very simple terms, I was too close to losing my shit because some skanky, on her period, cheaply dyed redhead decided that apparently I was worth the trouble to make a point about something. Now Israel let's say this together: tourist, not terrorist. Toooouuuuurist. You're going to treat people like shit because you have nothing better to do, then you're going to get people like me who are going to write about it. I was there for no more than 10 days. How do people deal with this every day of their lives?

I was warned when I arrived that things over there didn't really work according to time. Crossing borders could take 15 minutes to 3 hours, depending on what mood the Israeli soldiers or security personel were in. "How is that fair?" I asked. It's not. "But why do they do it?" I was burning with so many questions, trying to wrap my head around how things worked here. Why do any bullies act the way do? Because they can get away with it.

The Wall
Palestine is not recognized as its own state; its separated by a wall. A legit, concrete Berlin-type wall. I have never seen anything like it. We crossed into the West Bank and I was warned, but knowing about something and seeing it are two different things. In the bus, this huge concrete structure loomed ahead of us. That couldn't truly separate the land completely, could it? It does. It is a monster in comparison to its deceased cousin in Berlin. It is supposed to "protect" the people of Israel from Palestinian terrorists, but the only violence I witnessed, was hearing the goddamn IDF bombing a house near to where I was staying and seeing teenagers carrying AK47s demanding to see papers papers papers.

The Cattle Gate
To get into Palestine, you have to cross a checkpoint. Going in is not a problem, it's the leaving that is tricky. As a foreigner, we had to get out the bus and walk through a very narrow gate. Qalandiya is the main and largest checkpoints between northern West Bank and Jerusalem. Here I will quote from www.qalandiyainternational.org  which summarises everything that I cannot:

To enter Ramallah coming from Jerusalem, visitors must pass through qalandiya checkpoint, one of the largest Israeli military checkpoints in the occupied west Bank. The separation wall, checkpoints, concrete roadblocks and barriers, military camps zones, Israeli settlements and bypass roads are material evidence of the Israeli occupation. These structures demonstrate architecture and infrastructure used as a tool of military and political control. This system of restrictions impedes Palestinian freedom of movement, forcing people to spend more time commuting between cities, towns and villages. Palestinians are disconnected from neighbouring towns and the larger world, creating islands of detached lands or cantons. When closed, checkpoints can physically isolate and disconnect Palestinian built- up areas from each other; in the case of qalandiya, the checkpoint has gradually become a border crossing that resembles an airport terminal. 

 

Clogged traffic languishes, while pedestrians walk through chicken- coop-like passages to get to the soldier checking ID cards and luggage from behind fortified walls and small bulletproof glass windows. The checkpoint prevents Palestinians from commuting to Jerusalem and Israel unless they have an Israeli permit, which is extremely difficult to acquire.






I still don't know enough about the subject. This is just what I experienced, and I'm just a little white girl with wide eyes about the world. How it must be for those that live every day like that... My heart burns with indignation! And so, of course there is violence. People are fighting for their FREEDOM; a basic human right! And yet everyone I spoke to, on both sides, just want peace. Peace to live as they want. Peace without loved ones dying. This shouldn't exist in the 21st century, where we have years and years of experience and have had so many wars that have taught us that we, as human beings, are better than this. We are capable of living in harmony, albeit a rocky one. The situation is a time bomb; one where I hope that as little people as possible are harmed on both sides.

Every country has the right to defend its borders to the best of its ability. I understand it. I respect it. What is not acceptable is the treatment of people in regards to that. People are people. I wish I could write in further detail about the 1948 and 1967 conflict but it would require a lot more than a simple blog entry. My only hope is that after reading this, you send light and love towards that side of the world and pray for an amicable solution soon.

“For if life had taught her anything, it was that healing and peace can begin only with acknowledgment of wrongs committed.”
― Susan Abulhawa, 'Mornings in Jenin'