Yallah and Yani

Egypt gave birth to what later would become known as 'Western Civilization,' long before the greatness of Greece and Rome.

- John Henrik Clarke

Saqqara

On my trip to the Middle East at the very end of last year, I went out of my way to visit Egypt. A 15 hour bus ride one way (only to stay for one night) might not seem worth it, but as we made our way towards the border to return to Jerusalem, sleep deprived and only a little grumpy from the 2 hour border cross interrogation process, none of us were regretting our decision to explore this amazing country. As we were on a guided tour, we had a second day packed with goodies; that is to say, we had no choice but to wake up early. Our first stop, that chilly December morning, was Saqqara.

Bad guy Imotep!

Saqqara is just south of Cairo. It is home to the ancient necropolis of Memphis and is best known for having the first step pyramid that we all recognise as the tombs of pharaohs. Imotep, considered by some to be the earliest known architect as well as other cool titles such as High Priest of Heliopolis and Chancellor to the King of Egypt, Doctor and, how I personally recognised him, Bad Guy in 'The Mummy'. The Pyramid of Djoser, which Imotep was chief official of, was the first of its kind. Before then, nobles were buried in 'mastabas'; flatter, rectangular buildings built with mud brick instead of stone. Long after he died, Imotep was raised to deity-status; a bonafide god. Maybe that's how he had all those bad ass magic powers in the film!

The view of the traffic from our hotel window.

 Making our way through the city was a bit of a nightmare. I can't imagine any tourist renting a car and navigating the streets of central Cairo. The drivers have their own language made up of different car honks the vehicles make. Beep. Beep Beep. Beep Beeeeeeeep. They all mean different things: left, right, who knows what else. I imagined the drivers having a conversation: "Hey!" "Hellooooo!" "How you?" "Fine. You?" "Gooood Thaaaaanks!" I was quite nervous whenever cars got so close together that I could lick the other car's window if I wanted to. I didn't want to, but that is beside the point. Putting my absolute faith in our trusty driver, I did my best to just take in the sites of the city.

“Egyptians undergo an odd personality change behind the wheel of a car. In every other setting, aggression and impatience are frowned upon. The unofficial Egyptian anthem "Bokra, Insha'allah, Malesh" (Tomorrow, God Willing, Never Mind) isn't just an excuse for laziness. In a society requiring millennial patience, it is also a social code dictating that no one make too much of a fuss about things. But put an Egyptian in the driver's seat and he shows all the calm and consideration of a hooded swordsman delivering Islamic justice.”

― Tony Horwitz, Baghdad without a Map and Other Misadventures in Arabia

As you drive the anthill of the metropolis, your eyes are drawn to the many minarets of the mosques. You also can't comprehend the amount of desert dust that tinges the buildings of the city. The outside of buildings look shabby and dilapitated but, we were told, every Egyptian takes pride of their homes within. I pondered about why they allowed the buildings to stay that way, but when you live in the Sahara and it's a poor country on top of that, water is a neccesity, not a luxury.

The view of the polluted city from the mosque

As I am who I am, that being extremely unobservant, I asked our awesome guide Nasser where the churches were; with Christianity being a minority religion in the country, I was simply curious. Not surprisingly, if I had just paid more attention to what I looking at while we were driving through the city, I would have noticed that some of the minarets had crosses at the top of them. Use your eyes, Aurelia. Don't just look next time; see. And why did mosques have minarets anyway, I asked. In modern day society, they are purely symbolic, but in the past, before the invention of loudspeakers, callers would climb the architectural structure and call the people to prayer. Prayer, being one of the Five Pillars of Islam, has to be practiced 5 times a day.

Muhammad Ali mosque

The other famous site that was on the agenda for the day was visiting the Muhammad Ali mosque. What, I was secretly wondering. I was smart enough to know that they were not talking about the legendary boxer, but who were they talking about. If I can explain it this way, the "original" Mohammed Ali is viewed as the 'Father of Modern Egypt'. Built in the style of the Ottomans, the mosque was completed in 1848. It is one of the landmarks and tourist attractions of Cairo and sits impressively atop a hill overlooking the city through hazy, polluted air.


The building is exquisitely intricate in its design but I was less interested on the facade compared to my rising curiosity once we entered. With our shoes off, we made our way into the carpeted house of worship. Nasser was giving us a fountain of information and I just sat there absorbing it all in. He allowed me to ask any questions that I had burning inside me, whether they seemed silly or not. Knowledge is the death of ignorance, and I am tired of being ignorant.

The ceiling of the mosque

Our last day in Egypt ended with Nasser taking us to a local Egyptian cafe where we ate a typical dish called koshari; Egyptian rice, macaroni and lentils with a spicy tomato chile and garlic sauce. Afterwards we went to another local spot; a tea house, they are very popular in Arabic culture. Sipping our very sweet tea with mint (nana), smoking shisha and chatting with Nasser, as well as being the only foreigners, more importantly, the only girls in the vicinity was a wonderful experience and a perfect way to say good bye to the city.

The streets are devoid of colour

I learnt some Arabic on that trip. The language is beautiful to listen to and romantic in its wording. I have never been so taken by a language; wooed by the mystifying sounds. My two favourite words, though, were "yallah" and "yani". There is no direct translation for "yani" but can mean anything from "more or less", to "um" to "that is to say". It's a great word that I quickly adopted into my bastard word collection. "Yallah" means "let's go" or "hurry up"; something I heard from our guides in Egypt and Jordan. During this trip Nasser often said, "Yallah ya patata"; "Let's go potato." I love picking up little words and phrases like these from other languages. They have a way of adding colour to your vocabulary.



On our way back to the border, we had to stop due to the many checkpoints, we had to stop and wait until the next convoy. I couldn't wait any longer. I needed to pee. And in this way, I discovered the Squat Toilet. I write it in capital letters because of the significance of the experience. I have done my business in the Namibian desert, I've done my business in the African bush, but it was first time having to pee into a hole in the floor! Just another thing I can add to the weird things I've done in my life :)

My whole trip to the Middle East was an amazing, unexpected spiritual encounter. Egypt has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember and I am proud of myself to say that I can now tick it off!

 

I love the colours in this photo. Inside the mosque

 

Walking like an Egyptian

“Egypt is a great place for contrasts: splendid things gleam in the dust.”

- Gustave Flaubert

Camel ride into the Sahara Desert

We arrived to Cairo at about 8am, after too many hours in a minibus coming from Eilat, Israel. It wouldn't have taken so long but, because we had to bypass the Gaza strip, we had to go out of our way to reach the capital of Egypt. I decided not to wear a watch on the trip and with my phone packed away, I wasn't exactly sure of the time but the sky (and the air itself) still had that sleepy feel to it; when the colours we see are a dim shade of their brighter midday self. As the Museum of Cairo opened, we entered; grateful to enter before the long lines started.

Just chilling with Sphinx. No biggie

Travelling to a country that is recovering from a revolution means that it wise to travel with a company. Our guided tour included many things; we had an armed escort where ever we went for example. Our entourage was made up of 3 tourists, our guide, our driver and the policeman. My friend and I were travelling together from Palestine but the other girl had come alone, a Peruvian girl who had basic English. We decided that it was probably a good opportunity to practice our Spanish with her. Little did we know that we would only be speaking in Spanish for the next two days! Our wonderful guide, Nasser, could speak some Spanish too, and because we were such a tiny group, he tried to compensate for us as much as he could, and when he wasn't able to, we would try pick up the slack. My brain was dead by the end of that trip. Not speaking in my mother tongue in a foreign country that doesn't even speak that language? Not an easy feat! But we managed just fine :)

An eye-sore reminder of the revolution

Signs of the revolution were everywhere. A blackened shell of what was once a government building was right next to the museum. During the riots in 2011, that particular building was targeted because it belonged to Mubarak's political party. Other signs of the revolution is how quiet the tourist sites are and the military spotted around. Vendors said that what they are making now has more than halved since after the rebellion took place. When you whole income is invested in the tourist trade, that can devastate your way of life, but Nasser told us that Cairo is slowly making its come back as a tourist destination.


Poverty haunts the streets of the city. Coming from the opposite side of the continent, I expected the city to be a twin to Johannesburg; Jozi being a city knowing both wealth and destitution. It is not though. In many ways, I find this city extremely difficult to write about because I experienced one of the happiest days of my life there but, at the exact same time, it was a rude awakening as to how so many live. I equate most cities to a beehive; everyone busy doing their own little work, making the city function in perfect harmony. Cairo is an anthill. With a population of about 7 million, that's not really surprising, however the way the city runs is nothing like I've ever seen before. Somehow it works though, with every resident making the city the unique place it is. Either way though, I have so many things to say that I cannot hesitate at trying to explain myself to the best of my ability.

The Pyramids of Giza

After the museum, we made our way to the 3 Pyramids Papyrus Institute where, I'm ashamed to say, I fell into the tourist trap and bought a lovely Egyptian calendar that I have no idea how to interpret but looks just gorgeous and a little alluring on my wall. Being on a guided tour means that you are taken to these kinds of places that you would not otherwise stop at. I don't usually buy grand souvenirs like that, but my will went away with me. YOLO, you know? I am the worst when it comes to falling prey to a charming salesman. That's probably why I bought 3 bottles of famous Egyptian essence that I honestly don't need, but was insistent on buying while I was there. It doesn't help that everyone is so friendly and hospitable.

Arabic culture demands a show of generous hospitality. Nasser told us, "You are free to choose, but not to refuse." I was overwhelmed by how kind and giving these people are. It is part of their custom; it is a matter of honour and duty. I have had my fair share of adventures and my guard is always up as is needed for a solo female traveller. Yet I was treated with unexpected  respect and kindness everywhere I went in the Middle East, even as I dressed as conservatively as possible to avoid disrespect and unwanted attention; I was never made to feel that way.

First glimpse of the pyramids through the hazy pollution

We finally made our way to the pyramids! The moment we had been patiently waiting for. And what an awesome spectacle it was. Now, I say 'awesome' in truest meaning of the word; I was in awe. I first laid my eyes upon them from across the city while in the bus. Because the air is so polluted, we only got a hazy glimpse of them. When we eventually reached them, we could only simply gaze at their majesty. They are bigger than you expect. You can't climb the stones easily; steps have been made for tourists to climb onto the structures. As you stand on the golden blocks, which were once covered by smooth white limestone, you can sincerely believe that each took about 20 years to be built.

My scarf was always around my shoulders

There are 6 pyramids in Giza, which lie on the outskirts of Cairo and the three great pyramids there, are the most famous of them all, being the largest of roughly 160 ancient Egyptian tombs that have been found. The 3 great pyramids, and 3 lesser, sit right up against the city. To get those wonderful picturesque photos, you have to ride on a camel into the Sahara Desert and look back to see them at a distance. Riding a camel is not easy, let me tell you. You think it's like riding a horse. No. They are lovable creatures though, albeit a tad smelly. As I got the rhythm of the animal's gait, I was able to appreciate that this was a way of life. Plus, that was just another thing I could tick off my very long bucket list. This holiday was proving to be very successful in terms of fulfilling my dreams.

Access to the Sphinx has lessened over the years

After we took in our fill of the view of the pyramids, we had to pay our respects to another famous monument; the Great Sphinx of Giza. The regal monolith looks onto the modern city, with a few of Pizza Hut and KFC; a paradox if I ever saw one. Missing its nose and beard, he is often mistaken for a she, as legend states in Greek mythology. It was a lot smaller than I expected, standing only 20m high and yet it still the biggest monolith of its kind. I suppose that having this mysterious, imposing image in your mind is always grander and more spectacular than what reality delivers. But that being said, by no means was seeing the Sphinx any sort of disappointment. On the contrary, it was the perfect way to end our first day in Egypt.

Day one concluded by falling asleep in our lovely hotel by 9pm, listening to the cacophony of hoots and beeps from the cars and taxis on the main road below. Exhaustion overwhelmed us and sleep came easily. Going on a sightseeing holiday does that to a person; the actual travelling part of travelling is taxing. Over the next few days we napped where we could, fighting to maintain sufficient energy for the adventures that that day held. But those are stories for another day...

A beautiful Egyptian winter's day

Holiday in the Holy Land

“Jerusalem is a port city on the shore of eternity.”

- Yehuda Amichai 

Looking over Temple Mount

I found myself  upon entering the Old City, on the morning of Christmas Day, via Damascus Gate, one of seven (and main) entrances which lead into the walled area that separates the Old City from modern Jerusalem. I had no preconceptions of what to expect, not wanting to be disappointed or amazed by what I saw. This was my attitude for the next few days as I travelled a little around the Middle East. And let me just tell you, dear reader, that I was so surprised, by so many different things. 

Damascus Gate

Jerusalem is home to the three major Abrahamic religions, meaning the religions that stem from the story of Abraham from back in the good old days where people were asked to sacrifice their sons and chat with burning bushes. Judaism, Islam and Christianity are considered western religions but primarily, they all share the patriarchal story of Abraham. (Why they have so many problems when they've all got the same dad, I don't know.)

The city is divided into 4 uneven quarters: Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. On Christmas Day I visited the most famous sites that Jerusalem is renowned for.

The Muslim Quarter
As we went through Damascus Gate, we entered the Muslim Quarter. With children playing in the streets and tourists taking photos and absorbing the beautiful sites (I include myself in that sentiment), we made our way to the top of the Austrian Hospice, a pilgrim hostel. Entrance is free and people go to the roof to take incredible photos of the panoramic views of Temple Mount and Damascus Gate. Probably the cities most iconic landmark lies on Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock. It is Islam's oldest example of Islamic architecture. Temple Mount itself though, has significance for all three religions and has been used as a religious site for thousands of years.

Panoramic view from the roof of the Austrian Hospice

The Jewish Quarter
As we made our way towards the Jewish area of the city, it became quite noticeable. The whole vibe of the alleys change, not exactly something you can put your finger on but is  subtly evident if you look for it; the food and types of souvenirs that are sold, etc.

The Jewish Quarter holds the Western Wall; the holiest site for people of the Jewish faith as it is the only part of the original temple that was destroyed (where Temple Mount stands now) as Jerusalem was invaded and conquered over and over as the multitude of years went by. Jews, and other non-Muslims, are not allowed to pray openly on Temple Mount as it is controlled by the Muslims. This makes the western wall is the most sacred place to engage in public prayer.

The wall is separated for men and women and, as is normal for all holy sites, it is integral to dress modestly. I noticed that people were walking backwards from the wall; it is customary, as followers of the faith do not want to turn their back on it and therefore, show any disrespect to the sanctity to the holy place.

As you walk closer to the wall you see that every nook and cranny is filled with tiny prayer notes. It a centuries old tradition and the wall is cleared only twice a year where they are buried on the Mount of Olives, another place of reverence in Jerusalem. As I'm not at all religious but wanted to show my respect, I didn't get too close to the wall; not wanting to interrupt others. With so many people pressed up against the facade, and wanting to leave to see the other parts of the city, we moved towards the Christian Quarter.








The Christian Quarter
As it was Christmas Day, I expected there to be a mass of people but there weren't; Bethlehem being the place of choice (better to celebrate at the place of Jesus' birth than the site of his death, I guess). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is venerated to be where he was crucified and buried. The church is separated and controlled by different factions of the Christian kingdom. For example, the Greek Orthodox section is decorated completely different to the Armenian Orthodox section.

Graffiti on the door of the Christian church

My family is quite religious, so for my grandmothers, I went to the Altar of Crucifixion and, like so many before and will after me, I went on my knees to put my hands on the spot which marks where the cross once stood. Even for a non-believer like myself, it was a humbling experience; to say that I stood in a place where a man was killed and changed the world from what it was to what it is now.
 I didn't pay much mind to the modern city, only to travel in between Palestine, Egypt and Jordan (as you can't go anywhere from within the West Bank). From what I did see though, the city is modern, a metropolis like any other in Europe except for the fact that everywhere is a ghost town on Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest. 

I've always wanted to visit Jerusalem but now that I think about it, I'm not even sure why. I'm not particularly religious and my knowledge of the city was next to nothing. All that being said though, I'm really glad I went. Without realising the significance, my whole journey to the Middle East was eye-opening and self-expanding. What do I mean by that? "A mind, once stretched by a new idea, cannot return to its original dimensions." All that I learnt while I was there, about the political situation, about different cultures and about myself, has changed me somehow. Like a character in a video game, I've levelled up. Feels good :)

Bunting's Map of the World depicting at the centre.

The Occupation Situation

  “How much longer is the world willing to endure this spectacle of wanton cruelty?”
- Bertrand Russell

Graffiti on the Separation Wall

As a South African, I've heard the word 'Apartheid' very often. It's a dark, haunting story that we have in our past that we carry with us to make sure we do not make the same mistakes as our fathers. I didn't expect to see the word in Israel and yet there it was, staring at me like I was back at home, more than 20 years ago. 'Apartheid' is an Afrikaans word meaning 'the state of being apart'; a word that should no longer have any present significance and yet there it was, staring at me in the face.

Many people asked me why I was going to Israel in the first place. I answered, "well why not." "Because there was a war going on?" This is true. I was asked what I knew of the conflict and to be honest, next to nothing. War, that's what I knew. Something about Gaza. Although that ended in August. But I was invited to go. So I went.

In general, I lead a very sheltered life. I live a bubble where I don't let the real world with its real problems get to me. I'm a very emotional person and tend to stress about things I cannot help, therefore I shy away from the news and media, knowing that it will do nothing but upset me. As well as that, I tend to keep my opinions neutral about things; preferring to see both sides of a story than get actively and emotionally involved in something. After visiting and experiencing the very little that I did, I don't think I can ever be indifferent ever again. And so I decided to write about it.

I had to  remember that I wasn't specifically going to be in Israel, but in Ramallah, Palestine, except I wasn't allowed to call it that. I had to remember to call the area the West Bank. How confusing. It's because some people would say that there is no such place as Palestine on any present map. Do these people not exist? The only thing I knew about the difficult situation was that war has been ravaging the land for longer than I have been alive. I paid mind to all advice that came my way.

Border Patrol
Right. So I arrived to the airport preparing to be grilled by border patrol. Nope. Just a few questions and I was on my way. How anticlimactic! I'd been mentally prepping myself to be interviewed like they do in the movies, but no; the lady that helped was nice and friendly and wished me a merry Christmas. Well that was easier than expected. Off to a good start. I proceeded to make my way to Jerusalem.

This wasn't the case for every security check we went through though. As we went in and out of the country to visit Egypt and Jordan, we were questioned a few times; some more pleasant than others. Upon arrival from Egypt, I was questioned three times by three different people, all asking the same questions: Are you traveling alone? How do you know your friend? How long do you plan on staying in Israel? Where are you staying in Israel? My personal favorite though, what do you think about the conflict about Israel and Palestine? Really, Lady? Do you really think you'll get an honest answer from me about that one? After all that I've seen and gone through while being here? Insert a very vague, innocent answer here instead. That particular border check took 2 hours, but everyone was pleasant; just doing their job which I can respect. Keeping your country safe is so important nowadays.

I didn't appreciate how I was handled when I returned from Jordan though, like a second class citizen. In very simple terms, I was too close to losing my shit because some skanky, on her period, cheaply dyed redhead decided that apparently I was worth the trouble to make a point about something. Now Israel let's say this together: tourist, not terrorist. Toooouuuuurist. You're going to treat people like shit because you have nothing better to do, then you're going to get people like me who are going to write about it. I was there for no more than 10 days. How do people deal with this every day of their lives?

I was warned when I arrived that things over there didn't really work according to time. Crossing borders could take 15 minutes to 3 hours, depending on what mood the Israeli soldiers or security personel were in. "How is that fair?" I asked. It's not. "But why do they do it?" I was burning with so many questions, trying to wrap my head around how things worked here. Why do any bullies act the way do? Because they can get away with it.

The Wall
Palestine is not recognized as its own state; its separated by a wall. A legit, concrete Berlin-type wall. I have never seen anything like it. We crossed into the West Bank and I was warned, but knowing about something and seeing it are two different things. In the bus, this huge concrete structure loomed ahead of us. That couldn't truly separate the land completely, could it? It does. It is a monster in comparison to its deceased cousin in Berlin. It is supposed to "protect" the people of Israel from Palestinian terrorists, but the only violence I witnessed, was hearing the goddamn IDF bombing a house near to where I was staying and seeing teenagers carrying AK47s demanding to see papers papers papers.

The Cattle Gate
To get into Palestine, you have to cross a checkpoint. Going in is not a problem, it's the leaving that is tricky. As a foreigner, we had to get out the bus and walk through a very narrow gate. Qalandiya is the main and largest checkpoints between northern West Bank and Jerusalem. Here I will quote from www.qalandiyainternational.org  which summarises everything that I cannot:

To enter Ramallah coming from Jerusalem, visitors must pass through qalandiya checkpoint, one of the largest Israeli military checkpoints in the occupied west Bank. The separation wall, checkpoints, concrete roadblocks and barriers, military camps zones, Israeli settlements and bypass roads are material evidence of the Israeli occupation. These structures demonstrate architecture and infrastructure used as a tool of military and political control. This system of restrictions impedes Palestinian freedom of movement, forcing people to spend more time commuting between cities, towns and villages. Palestinians are disconnected from neighbouring towns and the larger world, creating islands of detached lands or cantons. When closed, checkpoints can physically isolate and disconnect Palestinian built- up areas from each other; in the case of qalandiya, the checkpoint has gradually become a border crossing that resembles an airport terminal. 

 

Clogged traffic languishes, while pedestrians walk through chicken- coop-like passages to get to the soldier checking ID cards and luggage from behind fortified walls and small bulletproof glass windows. The checkpoint prevents Palestinians from commuting to Jerusalem and Israel unless they have an Israeli permit, which is extremely difficult to acquire.






I still don't know enough about the subject. This is just what I experienced, and I'm just a little white girl with wide eyes about the world. How it must be for those that live every day like that... My heart burns with indignation! And so, of course there is violence. People are fighting for their FREEDOM; a basic human right! And yet everyone I spoke to, on both sides, just want peace. Peace to live as they want. Peace without loved ones dying. This shouldn't exist in the 21st century, where we have years and years of experience and have had so many wars that have taught us that we, as human beings, are better than this. We are capable of living in harmony, albeit a rocky one. The situation is a time bomb; one where I hope that as little people as possible are harmed on both sides.

Every country has the right to defend its borders to the best of its ability. I understand it. I respect it. What is not acceptable is the treatment of people in regards to that. People are people. I wish I could write in further detail about the 1948 and 1967 conflict but it would require a lot more than a simple blog entry. My only hope is that after reading this, you send light and love towards that side of the world and pray for an amicable solution soon.

“For if life had taught her anything, it was that healing and peace can begin only with acknowledgment of wrongs committed.”
― Susan Abulhawa, 'Mornings in Jenin'

The Experiences of a Motherfucking Princess

“The only way that we can live, is if we grow. The only way that we can grow is if we change. The only way that we can change is if we learn. The only way we can learn is if we are exposed. And the only way that we can become exposed is if we throw ourselves out into the open. Do it. Throw yourself.”

- C. JoyBell C

Here we go; round 2. Life lessons: they either hit you like a moving train, surprise you like the first blooms in Spring or creep up on you slowly as an unwanted realisation. And what we are to do, except either to accept and grow from the experience or shirk from the pain and be doomed to repeat the experience somewhere further down the line. This year has been a whirlwind of happiness and craziness, moments of euphoria and flashes of darkness. Here's what 2014 taught me...

1. You are not an island. Your actions affect others. Self-centred decisions may feel good in the moment, but are you prepared to deal with hurting those around you? And indecision is just as bad as making selfish ones. You are a pebble; when you make a decision, it has a ripple effect. How big are the waves that you are making?

2. It's OK to make selfish decisions; as long as you're prepared for the outcome. Sometimes we need to put ourselves first and not think how we affect others and just live our lives as we are meant to. You can't make everyone happy but you can make yourself to be. It's all about balance.

3. You cannot control what people will say or do to you, but you can control how you react to it. This one hit me like a brick to the face. No I cannot control how that one asshole treated me, but I can choose to let go of that resentment, cut ties and move on. This is not overreaction; this is healthy reaction. You do not choose to get hurt, but you do choose to hold onto that pain. I feel this is the perfect moment to channel my inner Disney princess and say... Let It Go!

4. Mixing business with pleasure: Now everyone is different, but boy did I learn the hard way not to get caught up in it. Messy. Chaos is unavoidable. Although I don't regret it, I'm not doing that ever again. It made for a good few awkward days together. As well as put my job at jeopardy.

5. Honesty truly is the best policy, although it can be harder than anything else in the world, . Omission is considered lying people. And you can hurt yourself and lose others in the process. Buddha once said: "Three things cannot be long hidden: the sun, the moon and the truth."

6. Mend fences. Call a truce. Don't burn bridges unless you really need to. We live in a very social society. I felt so much lighter after having sorted out all my people problems. That ex that I thought hated me? Well, in actual fact, he didn't. What unknowing relief. That girl talking about me behind my back? Yeah one small confrontation and we silently agreed to leave each other alone. So much unnecessary stagnant energy.

7. Sort out your daily life. Something I find particularly difficult as I live in my head, but by having a daily objective I feel clearer in my mind and so healthier in my soul. Ticking shit off my agenda makes me feel like I've accomplished something with my day; even if it's allocating time to just lying in bed and reading.

8. Mistakes do not need to define you. It's not a mistake if you learn from it. Experience is the best teacher. What better way to learn than to say, "OK I totally fucked up. Now I know better for next time." Grow from it! A bad deed does not make you a bad person.

9. YOLO has its place in the 21st century. Use it from time to time when you need that extra push to do something you would not otherwise have done. We live in a world of extremes.Sometimes you need to do something extreme in find the balance.

10.You are the cause; your actions define how you feel. There is no outside party that defines your happiness. Lightbulb moment I had one night during a bout of insomnia. Was interesting to reflect how much of my unhappiness I was blaming on others. Nope. Was all me. 

11. The road to Hell is paved with good intentions. Just because you meant it one way and it went another, doesn't validate anything. The whole "that's not what I meant", "I didn't mean for it bla bla bla". It doesn't matter what you meant; what matters is what you did. The time old saying, "actions speak louder than words" is so under appreciated.

12. The Fuck Yes or No theory. I read this somewhere and found it profoundly liberating. In the past few weeks, I've been struggling with something that I think many people can relate to: mediocrity. I'm tired of having mediocre friendships, mediocre encounters and mediocre opinions. The idea behind this theory is that if someone doesn't respond with a 'Fuck Yes' attitude to your person, then they should be a 'No' in your life and, can honestly, fuck right off... You are too awesome to feel that someone just thinks you are average. Reversely, if you don't have a 'Fuck Yes' approach to a person or activity or whatever, then you shouldn't put anymore effort in either and move on your merry way. I found this really helpful actually, with letting go of people that I was trying to hard to hold onto. Worked.

13. People are going to disappoint you. The people around you have their own, separate, just as complicated lives. You're going to get hurt. Hold your head high and deal that feeling in a mature manner. There is no point in losing your shit because something didn't go the way you expected.

14. People change. Friendships strain, and unlikely ones become stronger. And that's OK! I'm the type of person that wants to keep everyone I hold dear, close to my heart. Not. Possible. Life happens and the ones that want to stay in your life, will. Stop trying so hard. A lot of people just aren't worth the effort if it's all one-sided. Better to maintain those friendships with people that truly care, and not the ones that have the potential to or used to; even if it's fewer people than you'd expect.

15. Not everyone is going to like you. And you're going to get rejected. Dust yourself off. Move on.

A lot of these points correlate and others cancel each other out. Sometimes I had to learn a lesson a few times this year. Other times I had to deal with someone in a completely different way. And that's OK. My relationships with people have taught me a lot about myself and a lot about others as well. It's hard living in a society where such a huge aspect of who you are, is connected to who you are with others.

I feel as if I'm in two halves: one half, a little bonsai tree that is beautiful and needs to be looked after; the other: the care taker of that tree, pruning it and making sure it grows in the correct way to allow it to flourish in its own little world. Maybe this is the connection between the soul and mind. Or maybe these are just ramblings of a mother fucking princess.

“And once the storm is over, you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive. You won’t even be sure, whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm, you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.”

- Haruki Murakami

Is This The Way to Almeria?

I watched as the sky slowly turned a lighter shade of night; a hue that told me that dawn was approaching. Soon I was able to see the hilly desert terrain as we made our way towards Almeria. 

Me lying on the wall of the Alcazaba with the city below me

Tucked away in the south-east corner of the country, Almeria isn't as well known as other cities in Andalucia but has its own certain "duende". The word is difficult to translate into English but correlates with magic and spirit, which is exactly what you feel when you enter the city of Almeria.

Old facades of one of the buildings

The city was quiet that Saturday morning, the first weekend of December. The sky had that cold winter blue colour that told you the sunshine was only teasing you with its brightness. The streets were close to empty; the weekend of the "puente" had turned the town into a slumbering and empty borough. (Long weekends in Spanish are translated to the "bridge". "Hacer puente", meaning to take a long weekend.) We sauntered towards the old town, having in mind certain monuments that we wanted to see.

Quiet, empty street in the city

Almeria is ancient. You can feel the "duende" as you walk along the narrow streets. Buildings are old and the even the air seems to want to share a story with you. The wind whipped around our faces as we made our way around the city. Almeria was founded by Calipha Abd-ar-Rahman III (calipha meaning civil and religious Islamic ruler) in the 10th century.

Picture of urban paradise

A side street coming down from the Alcazaba

The city garnered its name from the building of the Alcazaba; once the most powerful Moorish fortress in Spain. The city was called Al-Mari'yah; "The Watchtower". The Alcazaba is the second largest citadel in the region, after the Alhambra in Granada. The city lies on the shores of the Mediterranean. The Alcazaba of Almeria (for there are others in other cities), is perched on a hill: the perfect vantage point for any imposing invaders that would come to raid the land.







With afternoon lunch along the beach front and having plans in a hammam, the day slowly came to an end.  A hammam, similar to Turkish Baths, which involves different pools of various water temperatures as well as an aromatic sauna, is meant to induce wellness and relaxation. It was a wonderful experience as we went for a full body massage; destressing ourselves before the hubbub of the Christmas season.

I like taking photos of cities' manholes. I realise how that sounds.

Many people don't think of visiting this particular patch of land when Seville, Malaga and Granada are so close but it is quite famous for other bizarre reasons. For one, the region contain Europe's only desert and was used as the back drop for many spaghetti westerns like 'The good, the Bad and the Ugly' and one of the Indiana Jones' films.

I'm definitely thinking of returning in the summer and visiting Cabo de Gata; a stretch of coastline in the area that is apparently breath taking, as well as going to check out 'Mini Hollywood'.

Soon Almeria! In the meantime, I shall continue humming the catchy tune of 'Is This The Way to Amarillo' and only changing the lyrics a little bit.

View of the city from the Alcazba

Introducing Granada

“Give him an offering, my lady, for there is no greater tragedy than that of the blind man in Granada.” 

The Alhambra can always be seen from the Albaycin district

The Darro river below the Alhambra

The above quote perfectly captures the truth of how majestic this city truly is. The first time I laid eyes on this bewitching place, I lost myself in it. I have left tiny pieces of my heart in a few cities, but Granada has magic that I hadn't expected to find. I was absolutely in awe of what I saw; of how I felt whilst walking the streets of the old city. I was captivated. Spellbound.

Although I haven't visited all the major cities of Spain, I would definitely say that, regardless,  Granada is by far my favourite. I have been to this ancient city twice; in winter as well as summer. Weather doesn't lessen the impression of magic you feel when you're wandering this city.

It's located in Andalusia, the south of Spain, in the Sierra Nevada mountains, which is the perfect snow capped destination for some winter skiing and yet only an hour away from the beach.

Just a bit a bit shoe tossing

History seeps through every nook and cranny; through every grand, main street and winding side alley. A short summary of the city involves the Moors, the Christians and the Jews, which are all tied up in a very long and complicated history that dates back hundreds of years. Granada held great importance in those days, evidenced by the grand citadel, the Alhambra. 



The city's old town called Albaycin, was once the Muslim quarter and faces the Alhambra. The district is made up of narrow streets and white washed houses with the perfect view of the Moorish palace. It is typical to find Arabic tea shops and shops selling goods from North Africa. I slowly wandered those colourful streets, caught in a bubble of culture, so different to what I knew and experienced previously. The quarter is situated on a hill and the labrynthine streets, which wind every which way, can be confusing at times but adds to the charm of the area; it is also my personal favourite part of Granada.

The old town behind me

The vibe of the city is quite youthful and hippy-esque with people in free flowing clothes, drum circles, jewellery making and long, braided hair. Gypsies also wander the streets, vying towards towards tourists with pieces of lavender to pass along as "gifts", yet don't be fooled. It's a ruse for "donations" for those little pieces of herb and to read your palm. That or you have a wild gypsy lady shouting at you and could may as well be cursing your family line.

View from the steps of the cathedral

Albaycin district

At night, the streets are teeming with both locals and tourists that come to the bars for drinks and free tapas. There's no need to eat out when there is an array of bars to choose from to keep you fill and relatively sober to carry on drinking. Granada is particularly famous for it.






I've been to this city single and I've been to this city not-so-single; both times were great, with memories that will stay with me forever. Granada has everything: history, beauty, nightlife, accessibility and not to mention the locals are friendly and helpful too.

One of the market streets

Granada is a treasured gem; every memory made there to be cherished and every smile shared there, remembered. It's as if the city wants you to fall in love with it; the scenery captures a feeling of true happiness. Definitely worth visiting somewhere along your life's path.

"Probably... the most beautiful and haunting of all Spanish cities; an African paradise set under the Sierras like a rose preserved in snow."

- Laurie Lee

Snow-capped Sierra Nevada in the distance