Sunday, December 15, 2013

Castles and Beaches

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time."
Marthe Troly-Curtin

One of the best things about Spain is definitely how I spend my weekends. I arrived in Murcia at the end of summer and it was still blazing hot, so my friends and I decided to spend our days at the beach. The city is an hour or so away from the coast by bus. Every weekend we decided to venture to different beaches. Alicante was one of the main places we decided to go to.



Alicante is an old city and historic port in the east of the country. When you arrive at the train station you immediately feel that holiday vibe that you look for when spending the day at the beach. Although the city has been around for hundreds of years, it is modern and vibrant with many things to do and see.

What attracted us most comes down to two things: the awesome beach and the Castle of Santa Barbara that sits atop the mountain, Mount Benacantil, overlooking the entire city.

The castle overlooks the port

The bus stop is right next to the port. It's about a ten minute walk to the main beach. Along the way, I was bombarded by sound; adusting my hearing to other languages. Alicante is a hot tourist destination for many Europeans. I heard German, Polish, Dutch and English more than I heard any Spanish. Living in Murcia, not much English is spoken so it was quite nice listening to my native tongue outside my circle of friends but also a bit annoying because I prefer listening to Spanish when I'm out and about.

Wandering the streets
The beach is very crowded. Unless you're looking for that kind of buzz, I would avoid this part of the coast and travel further south. As it is everywhere in Meditteranean, the water is a gorgeous teal blue with palm trees and white sands.





The first thing you notice about Alicante is the castle on the top of the hill. The Castle of Santa Barbara dates back to Muslim control but is named as such after the capturing of the city on the feast day of Saint Barbara by Castilian forces. Not quite who those guys are but okay, job well done.





We got a bit lost trying to find our way to the entrance of the mountain so we found some typical Mediterranean homes up against the side of the mountain with the most amazing view of the sea. There's nothing better than losing your way in a new city and stumbling upon something you would never have found otherwise. I think that's my favourite thing about travelling.

 It's been open to the public in recent years but at one what time it was used as a prison.



The view of the city is quite astounding. All of Alicante can be seen; a full 360 degree view.


When summer returns I'll definitely be spending more Sundays at the beach in Alicante. In the meantime though, I'd like to go back to see more of the city itself. I've yet find its countless hidden treasures.






We saw the most amazing sunsets
on the way down the mountain

Monday, December 9, 2013

Road Trip Adventures

Good friends, great music and a solid few hours in a tiny car is the beginning of what every twenty something should experience; a road trip adventure.

And so our adventure begins



Anna, Tom, Alex and myself spent the weekend in Granada; one of the most breath taking cities I have ever seen, but first we had to get there. You see, Granada is a good 3 or so hours away from Murcia. This is our Spanish home where we all met in September, and it was time we went on a mini vacation.

We had a long weekend as the 6th of December is a bank holiday in Spain so we decided to visit Granada. We hired a car and rented an apartment, all thanks to Tom's mad bargain-finding skills, and off we went; galavanting into the sunset.

Mr Tom, our resident rock star driver

Our Fiat 500 
Tom drove, I put myself in charge of music (I have great taste) while Alex and Anna relaxed in the backseat, quite squished but none the worse for wear. Shakira, Foo Fighters and Aerosmith kept us company along the way.







Pit Stop = Food!


At about half way, we stopped for food and to stretch our legs. Pit stops are an essential part of road trips. It's not about how long it takes to get there but the memories made along the way. As cliche as it is, it really is about the journey and not the destination. Food, drink, a good stretch and a bathroom break later and we were back on the road.

There is always one :)
Conversation during a road trip is almost always about everything and nothing. I cannot remember what we spoke about in the car but I do know that I enjoyed talking about shit that seemed important. That's the thing about adventures like these; it doesn't matter what is said or done, it's all just part of being in the moment.



We arrived in Granada as the sun was setting. Our holiday had begun even if the road trip was over and it was the perfect way of beginning an amazing weekend; definitely one for the books.



Saturday, November 30, 2013

Finding Home in Murcia

The sun dropping over the Old Bridge.
Photo belongs to Sara Lucy Smith


It is not easy finding a place that your heart can call home, no matter how long you've been there. You may adjust to living in a space but it's not always so that we find a place that we can call our own; home. After two weeks of traveling in Spain, I discovered my little piece of home away from home.

My new teaching job is located in Murcia. Little is known about this city because it is not a tourist destination, although you may find many expats here. Every Spaniard I met along the way and all my new students asked me, why Murcia? Why this city of all places?

Well, that's pretty easy to answer. Here's why:








Number 1: 
I didn't want to live in a city that is bustling with tourists. I would be able to get away with speaking English and I didn't want that. If you want to experience a culture and learn a new language, you have to immerse yourself fully. So no big, well known cities for me.


Number 2: 
Well it's where I was offered a good job. I work in a great language school and I enjoy what I do; teaching, in any of its forms.

The River Segura


Number 3: 
Murcia is the capital city of the region of the same name. It's in the south east of the country and it's quite warm in winter compared to some other places in the country. Coming from a long hard winter in Poland, I wanted to experience weather that is more similar to South African climate.

Number 4:
Why the hell not?

The Catedral de Santa Maria

I've been in Murcia for just over two months now and I absolutely love it here. I love my new friends that I've made, the locals are friendly, my students give me a great sense of satisfaction in my job and the city itself just seems to be alive in a way I can't explain.




I feel at home here. If you are from Murcia, you are called Murciano. I was telling my adult students about an embarrassing, drunken story I had one weekend and one of my students replied that it happens to all Murcianos and it officially made me one of them. My heart melted a bit at that. It seems anyone can find home somewhere in the world.

Real Casino
Murcia is definitely the place to travel if you want to experience Spain off the beaten track. One of the main beautiful sights is the lovely Catedra de Santa Maria. Built in 1394, it is one of the most astounding cathedrals I have ever seen. Visit the Real Casino de Murcia, a gentleman's club in 1847, restored to its original grandeur or walk along Gran Via, the main street in the city centre. It doesn't matter what you choose to do or see, you will always enjoy yourself, whether you're hunting for the perfect tapas bar or wandering along the streets with no destination in mind.

I've never thought of ever using this cliche but home is truly where the heart is.

Photo taken by Sara Lucy Smith











Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Happy Tears in Valencia

I'm continuously asked, why did I decide to move and teach English in Spain. I reply with the same answer, that honestly, I have no idea. I felt a tug in my chest about where I wanted to go to next; a physical pull that had no rational logic. I knew absolutely nothing about Spain; I even mispronounced "hola".

The square near to where my hostel was


Toesies in the sand!
When I reached Valencia on my two week trip across Spain before settling in Murcia, I realised why Spain was the right choice for me. That moment of realisation hit me once I saw the Mediterranean Sea for the first time. For no logical reason, I started to cry. This is why I came here! This feeling of accomplishment and growth; I'm just you're average South African girl and I made this dream, of seeing this view, come true. My decisions, my actions.






I asked the woman at the front desk of my hostel how I could get to the beach. She told me bus number 1 is one way of reaching it. Without a hint of Spanish, I put on my big girl panties and braved the local Spanish transport system. I had no idea which stop it was or how far I had to go. I just went on and trusted my instinct. If I got lost; well hey, it would be its own little adventure.

Luckily I did get off at the right bus stop and followed my nose on which way the beach would be and before I knew it, I was taking off my shoes and digging my toes into the sand. I couldn't swim because my new tattoo was healing, but I walked up and down the beach, dipping my toes into the warm water, wondering how in God's name did I actually manage to land up here.

I am so genuinely lucky and grateful for my parents. Without support from home, I would never be brave enough to even begin to think about traveling on my own. Thanks Mommy. Thanks Daddy. <3

I really liked this. It was above the entrance to my hostel.


By the time I landed in Valencia I was physically and mentally exhausted. My ridiculously heavy luggage and the constant traveling was getting to me, so I decided to just relax and enjoy the scenery I happened to come across; neither free walking tours, nor huge galavants. I did get lost a few times and that was a nice way of seeing things that I would never have normally seen.

Valencia is such a beautiful city. The vibe is quite different to the other Spanish cities I visited but in a way that makes you want to get to know the city a bit better. I will have to go back and learn more about the place.


The cute little alley that lead to my hostel


The view of Valencia from atop the cathedral


Thursday, November 14, 2013

My Mishap in Madrid

A mishap is defined as an unlucky accident, which is definitely what I would describe my first couchsurfing experience as. Since starting my life abroad, I have realised how quickly expenses add up when travelling. Accommodation can heavily dent your savings when all you really want is a roof over your head, a warm shower and money in your pocket to do all those touristy things you've been wanting try.

A Spanish New Tork


This is where the idea of couchsurfing comes in.The site connects travellers from all over the world by creating a social media base that allows people to meet, whether you're a local or a foreigner. Locals can host travellers for a night or two on their couch. 

I distrusted this concept immediately. What kind of person allows a random stranger to stay in their home for nothing in return? It seemed an idea that was idealistically great but in this harsh reality we live in, a bit naive and unsafe. 

I was happily surprised though when I went on the website and saw that surfers have to be rated (and therefore trusted) to be considered potential hosts. You can choose who you want to host or decline if you want to; every decision is in your hands, whether you're a host or a surfer.

The scariest fish I have ever seen!


My third stop on my trip around Spain was Madrid. By this time, my accommodation expenses were adding up quite a bit so I decided that I would give couchsurfing a try. My friend Justine is an avid surfer and has had nothing but good experiences. We had a conversation about it before I left, to try and calm my nerves.

Some graffiti in the street
"What if something happens to me?" I said.
"Something can happen in a hostel. That doesn't stop you from going there. Be brave; trust the system and trust your instinct", she replied.
"What system?" I asked.
"Couchsurfing; the system of strangers connecting and trusting each other", she answered.

This conversation stuck with me and I decided to just take the risk and go for it. Boy, was I in for a surprise! I stayed with a Mexican guy that had a great reputation on the site but I was still nervous to stay with a man. Luckily though, he was hosting a German girl too. Yvonne was my saving grace those few days.

My new favourite hangover remedy:
chocolate and churros
Yvonne was already familiar with the city and took me sightseeing and showed me some really great places that I would never have found by myself, like chocolate and churros! How quickly people can bond when put in certain circumstances. I'd like to go back to Madrid and see more of the city from a cultural perspective; learn more about the city itself.



My host took a particular liking to me though and became quite touchy-feely, which made me feel very uncomfortable. I became quite shy and introvert in his presence. How do you tell someone you don't want anything sexual with them when they are allowing you to sleep on their couch for two nights? I honestly did not know how to handle the situation. Thankfully, with Yvonne around, he didn't come onto me too often and we decided to spend our last night at a hostel. I'm really happy we met.

After my stay, I wrote a reference for his profile so that other surfers can know that, although many people wrote positive reviews, I am one of the few that did not have a great time with him. Every reference on CS is important. It allows others to better decide if they want to meet with the person in question.

Yvonne and myself in the main plaza


Trust is something so difficult to attain; to willingly rely on someone and to abandon our sense of control. CS asks us to trust others like us. "We envision a world made better by travel and travel made better by connection. Couchsurfers share their lives with the people they encounter, fostering cultural exchange and mutual respect."

Meeting strangers on couchsurfing can be a terrifying experience. I have no idea what I would have done without Yvonne. She balanced my negative experience with a positive one. Without CS, I would never have met her and I still want to try it again. Many people are genuinely interested in just helping a person out. Millions of people trust the system and I think that the concept is an amazing way of putting faith in humanity.



Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Zaragoza, the Eternal City


My view from my hostel window. 


After Barcelona, I headed off to Zaragoza; a city I had vaguely heard of but knew nothing about. I was in for a mild surprise as to what awaited me; two thousand years of history, all the way back to the Romans, leaving a legacy of monuments in its wake.

Evening strolls through the old town
My first impression was how radically different the city is to Barcelona. Barcelona hums with energy at all times whilst Zaragoza seemed a city that runs at a slower pace.

I arrived with over 40kg of luggage (my move to Spain made it necessary to lug my bags with me during my two week journey) and, even though it wasn't particularly far from the train station to my hostel, I was exhausted and collapsed on my bed in my temporary home.



Maritza and me
I met a Venezuelan girl and we instantly got on, like a house on fire. The next 24 hours saw our new friendship blossom with all the sightseeing we did. Without Maritza, I would've wandered the city without much direction. She became my non-Spanish, Spanish speaking guide without even visiting the city beforehand. This was the first time for both of us in the city; we popped our Zaragozan cherry together.


The city lies between Madrid and Barcelona in the north of the country, along the river Ebro. It is the perfect mid-journey stay.

The entrance to Aljaferia
Our first stop, and an absolute must-see, was the Aljaferia. This pleasure palace lies in the heart of the city. It was built for Zaragoza's Islamic rulers, roughly around the 11th century. When Christians took over the city in 1118, it became the royal residence of Christian kings. Nowadays, it holds Aragon's (the province in which the city resides) regional parliament. Guided tours are offered only in Spanish so I was quite happy for Maritza to be my own personal translator.

I went on a guided bus tour, mainly because I was too lazy to walk around but I found that it was interesting to see the difference in styles of sightseeing. I prefer walking tours but it's good to try different types to see which you prefer. I fell asleep during the ride; just soaking up the sun. Headphones in my ears, it becomes a bit like a monotonous background hum, I tended to stop listening.

The view of the city from the top
of the Basilica
My personal favourite moment of my stay in Zaragoza was taking the lift to the top of the basilica. The Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary where, according to ancient legend, Mary appeared to Saint James while he was in prayer. The view from the top of the building shows the city in all its historical glory.



Sunset captured on the Basilica and the Old Bridge


This city is beautifully memorable and definitely should be visited if you are travelling to/from Barcelona and Madrid. It is a place where history and folklore are still alive. When travelling abroad, it is a special experience to find a place that makes you believe that you are connected to a part of the world even though you have no real ties to it. I'm not quite sure why I felt this way to Zaragoza; it was just a great city to visit. It felt to me that Zaragoza draws you in like a child gazing at treasure in a stranger's outstretched hand.

"Because I dream, I'm not crazy"

Monday, October 28, 2013

Hola Barcelona!

People say that once you travel, you're never quite the same and I didn't realise how true that statement is until I arrived at Johannesburg International and felt this wave of surrealism wash over me. Did I really just spend nine, life changing months in Europe? Did I really see all those beautiful cities? This summer I spent my holiday in South Africa after teaching for a few months in Poland. It was great coming home and seeing all my loved ones. Two months flew by and before I knew it I had found a new teaching post in Spain. And this is where my new adventure begins...

The intersection at Universitat Metro

The view on the way
to Park Guell
I started off with a two week trip travelling through the country; not knowing a word of Spanish or anything about the culture itself. Looking back now, I'm surprised at how unprepared I was in moving to a new country, but oh well! All's well that ends well. My first stop was beautiful Barcelona.

Graffiti is permitted only
on the doors of buildings
My first impression of Barcelona, from the airport to the city, was how much I was going to like living in this country, and second; how much the scenery reminded me of home. Spain has this rough wildness about it that looks untouched. I'm not talking about palm trees and sandy beaches, but the desert element that encompasses parts of the land.

It is home to one of the most popular football clubs, FC Barca, as well to the Catalonian community. From Picasso to Gaudi, interesting history to outrageous parties, from beaches to museums; it seems that this famous city has it all. Lonely Planet dubbed it "a mix of sunny Meditteranean charm and European urban style", which seems to fit this metropolis quite aptly.








There are so many amazing sights in this city, but four days were not enough to touch and feel and see everything. I think that some cities need a proper amount of time to really explore what it has to offer. Four days is enough just to touch the surface; see the obvious tourist attractions.

Me in front of the Sagrada Familia
The Sagrada Familia is a large, unfinished church that was designed by famous architect, Antoni Gaudi. His work is evident throughout the city and his name is glorified in architecture and art alike. He died before building was completed and is still being built to this day; cranes tower over its highest peak. I didn't go inside, even though I had planned to. It rained that day and I wasn't willing to stand in the queue for hours but I can just imagine how amazing it must be.






Park Guell is a large tourist magnet for Gaudi fans too. It is a garden complex with architectural elements situated on a hill that overlooks the whole city. I found myself wondering around and thinking that Gaudi had a keen eye for finding the beautiful balance between nature and mankind. The focal points of the park are the mosaic salamander and the undulating wave that creates a long bench with enclaves to sit and socialise. Gaudi incorporated a lot of mosaic into his art, which adds splashes of colour to his structures.

The view from Park Guell


A lot of people are drawn to one of Barcelona's most famous streets; La Rambla. This busy, yet lively pedestrian boulevard is dotted with cafes and restaurants, kiosks and news stands; a street that never seems to sleep. A famous street market called La Boqueria is a prominent landmark on La Rambla and should definitely be visited. It has a vast array of foods that pique your appetite.

The port at sunset



Christopher Columbus
monument
The port is an amazing place to walk around at sunset. The city and hills on one side with the hundreds of yachts on the other; it seems to be the place that attracts locals and tourists alike for a relaxed evening out. The monument of Christopher Columbus, a 60m column, can be found at the harbour at the lower end of La Rambla.

Barcelona is a city that seems to suck you in and never wants to you let go. People love it or hate it but everyone has an opinion, which in itself is impressive. I happened to love it and I will definitely return, just like a love sick bee wanders aimlessly until eventually it finds its way back to its beautiful exotic flower.





The interior of the church Santa Del Mar

Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Egoli; City of Gold

Johannesburg; more often called Joburg or Jozi by locals. This city is my home. 


I have lived in South Africa my entire life, even though both my parents are Polish. People ask me what it's like living in a place with such a bad reputation. In all honesty, Joburg isn't my most favourite South African city but it's home and always will be.

In Zulu, Egoli means place of gold as Johannesburg was built on the gold rush in the 1880s. 

Aerial view of the city
 It's the world's largest city not situated on a river, lake or coastline. When I travelled in Europe, I was genuinely surprised by how many cities are, like Budapest, Prague etc. I just wasn't expecting it because Joburg sits on a plateau.





The city is believed to be South Africa's capital but it is not. The country has, in fact, three capital cities but Joburg is not one of them. Cape Town, our mother city, is one of them though, along with Pretoria and Bloemfontein.

There are a lot of fun activities to do in the city, from zoos to amusement parks, clubbing to gambling, city tours to bungee jumping. 

Sitting in traffic
A view of the highway












I am often asked about the crime that goes on in Jozi. I can't lie and say it's not as bad as it seems. Too many of my friends have had bad experiences, but I will tell you that it's something you get used to. We live very differently to the rest of the world. We are always aware of our surroundings; closed car windows, extra security around our homes; it's something you just live with. And life goes on as normal.

Sunset on my way home
With all that being said, being home for the past two months I have enjoyed living in Joburg. It's not a beautiful city but life here is intense. You are more aware of your race (whether you admit to it or not), taxis rule the roads, football comes second to rugby, you hear five different native languages at any given time, and surprisingly, people are genuinely friendly.

It doesn't matter if you're black, white, purple or blue. Rule of thumb is that South Africans are cool people. We are friendly and laid back. Our history and current political situation is unique and whether we're supporting the ANC or the DA, we all take life in Africa with a pinch of salt... and patience :)


Some people are less tolerant than others but not everyone feels the same. Is that not true for anywhere in the world? I'm a white South African and I proudly have black friends. 


You can't live in Africa and expect it to be the same as Europe or America. It's not. Time flows at a different pace. Life is sometimes backwards. Strife is common. And yet, even with all that nonsense, most people who come here fall in love with our land. 

An early morning in the city

Ending off with my favourite Nelson Mandela quote:

“No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite.” 
- Long Walk to Freedom