Happily by Accident

As is usual on Mondays after work, I slowly rode my bicycle home. Usually this takes me about 10 minutes. This particular evening though, I had forgotten one important factor. Today was the second day of Semana Santa; Holy Week.

Easter is quite the festival here in Murcia, Spain. Streets are filled with people and the city becomes a maize; alive in its own right, leading people through the streets to where it wants you to go. Chairs align the road so that people can sit and enjoy the processions, unknowingly following a Spanish 'yellow brick road'.

The processions continued every day from the 13th of April this year to the 20th. They became more impressive as it got closer to Good Friday. Not all processions are equal though either. That Monday night's one was quite festive with the marching band and the Nazarenes in their KKK-like attire.

The Nazarenes dress in tunics and lead the procession, with torches lit, and candy-filled pouches in their coloured tunics. As they walk along, spectators are given sweets, biscuits or even hard-boiled eggs from the hidden bags of the Nazarenes that take part. They carry religious sculptures of Jesus, like an open air exhibition to famous artists like Francisco Salzillo.

Each day the Nazarenes wear different coloured tunics. Today was red. Tomorrow might be green or blue; each with a meaning. Each with a pointed hood. Each colour represents a parish in the city. Each day, a different parish represents the city.

Back to getting lost in the maize. As I said, I forgot that the processions would be taking place. I shouldn't have. I watched them set up the chairs on my way to work that afternoon. But I did; so... I had to find my way across the river to where I live. Every side street I took; every main street, every alley was bordered off with chairs. I could not help but be lead towards the centre of the city. Always finding my way back to the cathedral, the focal point of my small (and in that moment) anthill of a city.

Eventually, 40 minutes later, I decided to make my way back to my work and go around the bus station, near the edge of the city. Still, I had to work my way through the streets, past the many families enjoying the parade. I couldn't help but love this little place I call home right then. It's the people that make places special.

I missed the important days of Holy Week as I was in Italy, but I felt lucky to have gotten caught up in the build up of that week; happily by accident.

After Holy Week were two more important days for Murcia; 'Bando de la Huerta' and 'Entierro de la Sardina'. Bando is the first Tuesday after Easter and pretty much one big street party. It is actually a part of the spring festival but every local I have spoken to say it's just a good excuse to drink out in the open.

I was back from Italy just in time for Entierro de la Sardina - Burial of the Sardine. It is a traditional festival that closes the carnival celebrations. Another street parade with lots of music, beautiful dancers in amazing costumes and people throwing toys into the crowd for children.

As the parade came to a close and the festivities were ending, the giant sardine statue that was in the middle of the main intersection transformed into an enormous bonfire, like an offering to the gods for the coming year; concluding the spring holidays.

The Burial of the Sardine was over but I was waiting in anticipation for one more thing; the fireworks! I am child-like in a way; I still get over excited when I see an amazing firework display; as if magic really does exist in this world of ours for those few enchanting minutes. The fireworks that night were truly amazing. They left me in awe...

Murcia's two week holiday was over, but oh, what a wonderful way it was to end them.

The Cathedral of Murcia

I'd been in Murcia for 6 months and I still hadn't been inside the cathedral that is Murcia's main city attraction. If you know me, you would realise how remarkable that is. I am a lover of cathedrals. The architecture and history of these majestic buildings enthrall me in every which way possible.

I am by no means religious though. Don't get me wrong; to each their own and all that but for me it just doesn't sit well with who I am and what I believe in. I digress. Cathedrals. So after wandering the city centre this past Saturday; meandering through the streets during the siesta, I decided to enter its big, grand doors and see what I had been missing.

The facade of the cathedral

La Iglesia Catedral de Santa Maria en Murcia; the Cathedral Church of Saint Mary, is the heart of the city centre. Let me first explain that the cathedral can be seen from nearly any point in the city. Murcia is by no means a big town so this isn't really a difficult feat but it is still impressive nonetheless. It is the most important monument building this southern city has to offer.

The cathedral was created  in 1394 and was built on top of a Moorish mosque. This is quite intriguing as the Christian king at the time had made a pact previously with the Muslims, stating that no mosques would be destroyed.

Anywhere you walk in
the city centre, the bell tower
can be seen.

I first entered through the museum which is a part of the cathedral. It is built on the Muslim remains. It preserves the remnants of medieval paintings and a collection of gold and silver artifacts such as beautifully detailed chalices. I found the history of each piece on display interesting and enjoyed absorbing all the facts.



After walking through the museum, I made my way inside the church. It was icy cold inside and I didn't feel that instant gratification of peace and serenity that I so hungrily look for when I enter buildings such as this one. I didn't stay long and soon enough exited the front of the church, onto the main square. I took a closer look at the facade of the building. It really is an  amazing piece of art by any standards.

The church continued to grow until the 18th century and is a beautiful mix of artistic styles. It is a brilliant summary of the architectural styles of more than 5 centuries. Its facade is Baroque with a Gothic interior.

The Bell Tower

The heart and entrails of the king Alfonso the Wise are buried under the main altar. He left them, he said in a testament, as a gift and proof of his love of Murcia and in thanks to the fidelity that the city showed him. To be honest, I don't know much about Spanish history and its kings but any king that thought it worthwhile to bury his heart in this little city is alright by me.












I came across this short video that allows you to take a look at the cathedral through the means of a summary of a new virtual tour. Take a look and see just how beautiful the heart of Murcia really is. Thanks to Romereports.com for allowing me to share this with you.

Finding Home in Murcia

The sun dropping over the Old Bridge.
Photo belongs to Sara Lucy Smith

It is not easy finding a place that your heart can call home, no matter how long you've been there. You may adjust to living in a space but it's not always so that we find a place that we can call our own; home. After two weeks of traveling in Spain, I discovered my little piece of home away from home.

My new teaching job is located in Murcia. Little is known about this city because it is not a tourist destination, although you may find many expats here. Every Spaniard I met along the way and all my new students asked me, why Murcia? Why this city of all places?

Well, that's pretty easy to answer. Here's why:








Number 1: 
I didn't want to live in a city that is bustling with tourists. I would be able to get away with speaking English and I didn't want that. If you want to experience a culture and learn a new language, you have to immerse yourself fully. So no big, well known cities for me.


Number 2: 
Well it's where I was offered a good job. I work in a great language school and I enjoy what I do; teaching, in any of its forms.

The River Segura

Number 3: 
Murcia is the capital city of the region of the same name. It's in the south east of the country and it's quite warm in winter compared to some other places in the country. Coming from a long hard winter in Poland, I wanted to experience weather that is more similar to South African climate.

Number 4:
Why the hell not?

The Catedral de Santa Maria

I've been in Murcia for just over two months now and I absolutely love it here. I love my new friends that I've made, the locals are friendly, my students give me a great sense of satisfaction in my job and the city itself just seems to be alive in a way I can't explain.

I feel at home here. If you are from Murcia, you are called Murciano. I was telling my adult students about an embarrassing, drunken story I had one weekend and one of my students replied that it happens to all Murcianos and it officially made me one of them. My heart melted a bit at that. It seems anyone can find home somewhere in the world.

Real Casino

Murcia is definitely the place to travel if you want to experience Spain off the beaten track. One of the main beautiful sights is the lovely Catedra de Santa Maria. Built in 1394, it is one of the most astounding cathedrals I have ever seen. Visit the Real Casino de Murcia, a gentleman's club in 1847, restored to its original grandeur or walk along Gran Via, the main street in the city centre. It doesn't matter what you choose to do or see, you will always enjoy yourself, whether you're hunting for the perfect tapas bar or wandering along the streets with no destination in mind.

I've never thought of ever using this cliche but home is truly where the heart is.

Photo taken by Sara Lucy Smith