Is This The Way to Almeria?

I watched as the sky slowly turned a lighter shade of night; a hue that told me that dawn was approaching. Soon I was able to see the hilly desert terrain as we made our way towards Almeria. 

Me lying on the wall of the Alcazaba with the city below me

Tucked away in the south-east corner of the country, Almeria isn't as well known as other cities in Andalucia but has its own certain "duende". The word is difficult to translate into English but correlates with magic and spirit, which is exactly what you feel when you enter the city of Almeria.

Old facades of one of the buildings

The city was quiet that Saturday morning, the first weekend of December. The sky had that cold winter blue colour that told you the sunshine was only teasing you with its brightness. The streets were close to empty; the weekend of the "puente" had turned the town into a slumbering and empty borough. (Long weekends in Spanish are translated to the "bridge". "Hacer puente", meaning to take a long weekend.) We sauntered towards the old town, having in mind certain monuments that we wanted to see.

Quiet, empty street in the city

Almeria is ancient. You can feel the "duende" as you walk along the narrow streets. Buildings are old and the even the air seems to want to share a story with you. The wind whipped around our faces as we made our way around the city. Almeria was founded by Calipha Abd-ar-Rahman III (calipha meaning civil and religious Islamic ruler) in the 10th century.

Picture of urban paradise

A side street coming down from the Alcazaba

The city garnered its name from the building of the Alcazaba; once the most powerful Moorish fortress in Spain. The city was called Al-Mari'yah; "The Watchtower". The Alcazaba is the second largest citadel in the region, after the Alhambra in Granada. The city lies on the shores of the Mediterranean. The Alcazaba of Almeria (for there are others in other cities), is perched on a hill: the perfect vantage point for any imposing invaders that would come to raid the land.







With afternoon lunch along the beach front and having plans in a hammam, the day slowly came to an end.  A hammam, similar to Turkish Baths, which involves different pools of various water temperatures as well as an aromatic sauna, is meant to induce wellness and relaxation. It was a wonderful experience as we went for a full body massage; destressing ourselves before the hubbub of the Christmas season.

I like taking photos of cities' manholes. I realise how that sounds.

Many people don't think of visiting this particular patch of land when Seville, Malaga and Granada are so close but it is quite famous for other bizarre reasons. For one, the region contain Europe's only desert and was used as the back drop for many spaghetti westerns like 'The good, the Bad and the Ugly' and one of the Indiana Jones' films.

I'm definitely thinking of returning in the summer and visiting Cabo de Gata; a stretch of coastline in the area that is apparently breath taking, as well as going to check out 'Mini Hollywood'.

Soon Almeria! In the meantime, I shall continue humming the catchy tune of 'Is This The Way to Amarillo' and only changing the lyrics a little bit.

View of the city from the Alcazba

Introducing Granada

“Give him an offering, my lady, for there is no greater tragedy than that of the blind man in Granada.” 

The Alhambra can always be seen from the Albaycin district

The Darro river below the Alhambra

The above quote perfectly captures the truth of how majestic this city truly is. The first time I laid eyes on this bewitching place, I lost myself in it. I have left tiny pieces of my heart in a few cities, but Granada has magic that I hadn't expected to find. I was absolutely in awe of what I saw; of how I felt whilst walking the streets of the old city. I was captivated. Spellbound.

Although I haven't visited all the major cities of Spain, I would definitely say that, regardless,  Granada is by far my favourite. I have been to this ancient city twice; in winter as well as summer. Weather doesn't lessen the impression of magic you feel when you're wandering this city.

It's located in Andalusia, the south of Spain, in the Sierra Nevada mountains, which is the perfect snow capped destination for some winter skiing and yet only an hour away from the beach.

Just a bit a bit shoe tossing

History seeps through every nook and cranny; through every grand, main street and winding side alley. A short summary of the city involves the Moors, the Christians and the Jews, which are all tied up in a very long and complicated history that dates back hundreds of years. Granada held great importance in those days, evidenced by the grand citadel, the Alhambra. 



The city's old town called Albaycin, was once the Muslim quarter and faces the Alhambra. The district is made up of narrow streets and white washed houses with the perfect view of the Moorish palace. It is typical to find Arabic tea shops and shops selling goods from North Africa. I slowly wandered those colourful streets, caught in a bubble of culture, so different to what I knew and experienced previously. The quarter is situated on a hill and the labrynthine streets, which wind every which way, can be confusing at times but adds to the charm of the area; it is also my personal favourite part of Granada.

The old town behind me

The vibe of the city is quite youthful and hippy-esque with people in free flowing clothes, drum circles, jewellery making and long, braided hair. Gypsies also wander the streets, vying towards towards tourists with pieces of lavender to pass along as "gifts", yet don't be fooled. It's a ruse for "donations" for those little pieces of herb and to read your palm. That or you have a wild gypsy lady shouting at you and could may as well be cursing your family line.

View from the steps of the cathedral

Albaycin district

At night, the streets are teeming with both locals and tourists that come to the bars for drinks and free tapas. There's no need to eat out when there is an array of bars to choose from to keep you fill and relatively sober to carry on drinking. Granada is particularly famous for it.






I've been to this city single and I've been to this city not-so-single; both times were great, with memories that will stay with me forever. Granada has everything: history, beauty, nightlife, accessibility and not to mention the locals are friendly and helpful too.

One of the market streets

Granada is a treasured gem; every memory made there to be cherished and every smile shared there, remembered. It's as if the city wants you to fall in love with it; the scenery captures a feeling of true happiness. Definitely worth visiting somewhere along your life's path.

"Probably... the most beautiful and haunting of all Spanish cities; an African paradise set under the Sierras like a rose preserved in snow."

- Laurie Lee

Snow-capped Sierra Nevada in the distance

*Fiestas and Fireworks*

Year after year, the city of Valencia prepares itself for a celebration that demands their time and devotion, inviting people from around the world to welcome a new season through fire and light. It is the city's pride and joy that people flock to take part in; the festival of Las Fallas.

This was my favourite 'fallas'

The fiesta takes place annually in March to celebrate the beginning of Spring and to throw off the final drags of winter. The festival is 5 days of loud fireworks and crackers, street parties and the giant, satirical monuments that are known as 'fallas' and 'ninots'.

The monuments tower over the city

From the moment we arrived, we could see that the party had begun in parts of the city. We walked to our apartment, past the 'ninots' and wondered what they were. They represent the age old tradition of burning the supplies of torching excess winter supplies and, over time, took form and shape of people and grew in size. On 19 March, the day of Saint Joseph, patron saint of carpenters and a public holiday in Spain, the monuments are burnt and thus the festival of 'Las Fallas' ('The Fires' in Valenciano, the language spoken in the area) was born.

Hello random strangers!

We adventured into the city, not knowing where to go or what to do but wanting to party and experience what the city had to offer. We landed up dancing the night away and having midnight kebabs to keep our energy levels revved before wandering around the busy streets and making new friends along the way. I found a photo on my camera the next morning; we were all smiles but I have no idea what the names of those strangers are, yet in that moment we just happily enjoyed each other's company.

The next day we made our way to the centre of the city to listen to the daily noisy event of 'la Mascleta'. At 2pm firecrackers are set off and a fanfare of gunpowder ensues for the next couple of minutes. Thousands are drawn towards the 'ayuntamiento' ('town hall' in Spanish) to watch the concert of noise and smoke. Feeling the 'doof doof doof' in my chest as the crackers went off was exhilarating and after it finished, the people slowly dispersed into side streets to carry on with their drinking and partying.

The crowd slowly started to disperse after La Mascleta

The city doubles in size to about 3 million people during the festival. I wasn't surprised when the 5 of us that had gone together, were separated during the day. With so many people in the streets and with each of us looking at different things, it was bound to happen. By the time we found each other again, we were all exhausted and decided to go home to relax before going out again that night.

The streets came alive through music, dance and drink

As we walked home, firecrackers were being let off every which way we went. I could never really quite relax as I jumped at every single one I heard and had to watch out for where they were being thrown; I was constantly twitching as if I had an odd disorder. The festival has been known to be a little dangerous because of the free-for-all mentality of playing with crackers and, of course, accidents do happen. Children as young as 5 were lighting their little cherry bombs, with no safety gear on, while parents looked on with a sense of pride. I did enjoy the smell of the gun powder though; it reminded me of my own childhood.

Sitting on the bridge,
waiting for the fireworks

I was most excited for the famous fireworks display that lights up the night sky. However, for some unknown reason I was expecting more grandeur and allurement. I think this was my own fault though because my friends happily enjoyed the fireworks. That's what you get for going in with a certain expectation. Lesson learned. Looking back I think that they were really great but in the moment, I seemed to have been searching for magic that just escaped my grasp. Genuinely though, the pyrotechnics were an amazing sight.


Afterwards we went for a drink but I lost my 'ganas' (my desire to go out) and wandered the streets hunting for a taxi to go home. That was a failed adventure all on its own because no free taxis could be found anywhere, so we ventured through the city trying to find our way back to our temporary abode; our feet aching and our bodies tired.


We woke up on Sunday, not ready to go home but a little beat from the hustle and bustle of the festival. As night approached, we got on our bus and took the 3 hour trip home. I looked out the window and saw an orange full moon rise and that helped to ward off my Sunday night blues.

One more thing I can happily and successfully tick off my bucket list: Las Fallas (Spain 2014)

15m tall Moses sits in the city centre

Castles and Beaches

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time."

Marthe Troly-Curtin

One of the best things about Spain is definitely how I spend my weekends. I arrived in Murcia at the end of summer and it was still blazing hot, so my friends and I decided to spend our days at the beach. The city is an hour or so away from the coast by bus. Every weekend we decided to venture to different beaches. Alicante was one of the main places we decided to go to.

Alicante is an old city and historic port in the east of the country. When you arrive at the train station you immediately feel that holiday vibe that you look for when spending the day at the beach. Although the city has been around for hundreds of years, it is modern and vibrant with many things to do and see.

What attracted us most comes down to two things: the awesome beach and the Castle of Santa Barbara that sits atop the mountain, Mount Benacantil, overlooking the entire city.

The castle overlooks the port

The bus stop is right next to the port. It's about a ten minute walk to the main beach. Along the way, I was bombarded by sound; adusting my hearing to other languages. Alicante is a hot tourist destination for many Europeans. I heard German, Polish, Dutch and English more than I heard any Spanish. Living in Murcia, not much English is spoken so it was quite nice listening to my native tongue outside my circle of friends but also a bit annoying because I prefer listening to Spanish when I'm out and about.

Wandering the streets

The beach is very crowded. Unless you're looking for that kind of buzz, I would avoid this part of the coast and travel further south. As it is everywhere in Meditteranean, the water is a gorgeous teal blue with palm trees and white sands.





The first thing you notice about Alicante is the castle on the top of the hill. The Castle of Santa Barbara dates back to Muslim control but is named as such after the capturing of the city on the feast day of Saint Barbara by Castilian forces. Not quite who those guys are but okay, job well done.





We got a bit lost trying to find our way to the entrance of the mountain so we found some typical Mediterranean homes up against the side of the mountain with the most amazing view of the sea. There's nothing better than losing your way in a new city and stumbling upon something you would never have found otherwise. I think that's my favourite thing about travelling.

 It's been open to the public in recent years but at one what time it was used as a prison.



The view of the city is quite astounding. All of Alicante can be seen; a full 360 degree view.


When summer returns I'll definitely be spending more Sundays at the beach in Alicante. In the meantime though, I'd like to go back to see more of the city itself. I've yet find its countless hidden treasures.

We saw the most amazing sunsets
on the way down the mountain

Road Trip Adventures

Good friends, great music and a solid few hours in a tiny car is the beginning of what every twenty something should experience; a road trip adventure.

And so our adventure begins

Anna, Tom, Alex and myself spent the weekend in Granada; one of the most breath taking cities I have ever seen, but first we had to get there. You see, Granada is a good 3 or so hours away from Murcia. This is our Spanish home where we all met in September, and it was time we went on a mini vacation.

We had a long weekend as the 6th of December is a bank holiday in Spain so we decided to visit Granada. We hired a car and rented an apartment, all thanks to Tom's mad bargain-finding skills, and off we went; galavanting into the sunset.

Mr Tom, our resident rock star driver

Our Fiat 500 

Tom drove, I put myself in charge of music (I have great taste) while Alex and Anna relaxed in the backseat, quite squished but none the worse for wear. Shakira, Foo Fighters and Aerosmith kept us company along the way.

Pit Stop = Food!

At about half way, we stopped for food and to stretch our legs. Pit stops are an essential part of road trips. It's not about how long it takes to get there but the memories made along the way. As cliche as it is, it really is about the journey and not the destination. Food, drink, a good stretch and a bathroom break later and we were back on the road.

There is always one :)

Conversation during a road trip is almost always about everything and nothing. I cannot remember what we spoke about in the car but I do know that I enjoyed talking about shit that seemed important. That's the thing about adventures like these; it doesn't matter what is said or done, it's all just part of being in the moment.

We arrived in Granada as the sun was setting. Our holiday had begun even if the road trip was over and it was the perfect way of beginning an amazing weekend; definitely one for the books.

Finding Home in Murcia

The sun dropping over the Old Bridge.
Photo belongs to Sara Lucy Smith

It is not easy finding a place that your heart can call home, no matter how long you've been there. You may adjust to living in a space but it's not always so that we find a place that we can call our own; home. After two weeks of traveling in Spain, I discovered my little piece of home away from home.

My new teaching job is located in Murcia. Little is known about this city because it is not a tourist destination, although you may find many expats here. Every Spaniard I met along the way and all my new students asked me, why Murcia? Why this city of all places?

Well, that's pretty easy to answer. Here's why:








Number 1: 
I didn't want to live in a city that is bustling with tourists. I would be able to get away with speaking English and I didn't want that. If you want to experience a culture and learn a new language, you have to immerse yourself fully. So no big, well known cities for me.


Number 2: 
Well it's where I was offered a good job. I work in a great language school and I enjoy what I do; teaching, in any of its forms.

The River Segura

Number 3: 
Murcia is the capital city of the region of the same name. It's in the south east of the country and it's quite warm in winter compared to some other places in the country. Coming from a long hard winter in Poland, I wanted to experience weather that is more similar to South African climate.

Number 4:
Why the hell not?

The Catedral de Santa Maria

I've been in Murcia for just over two months now and I absolutely love it here. I love my new friends that I've made, the locals are friendly, my students give me a great sense of satisfaction in my job and the city itself just seems to be alive in a way I can't explain.

I feel at home here. If you are from Murcia, you are called Murciano. I was telling my adult students about an embarrassing, drunken story I had one weekend and one of my students replied that it happens to all Murcianos and it officially made me one of them. My heart melted a bit at that. It seems anyone can find home somewhere in the world.

Real Casino

Murcia is definitely the place to travel if you want to experience Spain off the beaten track. One of the main beautiful sights is the lovely Catedra de Santa Maria. Built in 1394, it is one of the most astounding cathedrals I have ever seen. Visit the Real Casino de Murcia, a gentleman's club in 1847, restored to its original grandeur or walk along Gran Via, the main street in the city centre. It doesn't matter what you choose to do or see, you will always enjoy yourself, whether you're hunting for the perfect tapas bar or wandering along the streets with no destination in mind.

I've never thought of ever using this cliche but home is truly where the heart is.

Photo taken by Sara Lucy Smith

Happy Tears in Valencia

I'm continuously asked, why did I decide to move and teach English in Spain. I reply with the same answer, that honestly, I have no idea. I felt a tug in my chest about where I wanted to go to next; a physical pull that had no rational logic. I knew absolutely nothing about Spain; I even mispronounced "hola".

The square near to where my hostel was

Toesies in the sand!

When I reached Valencia on my two week trip across Spain before settling in Murcia, I realised why Spain was the right choice for me. That moment of realisation hit me once I saw the Mediterranean Sea for the first time. For no logical reason, I started to cry. This is why I came here! This feeling of accomplishment and growth; I'm just you're average South African girl and I made this dream, of seeing this view, come true. My decisions, my actions.






I asked the woman at the front desk of my hostel how I could get to the beach. She told me bus number 1 is one way of reaching it. Without a hint of Spanish, I put on my big girl panties and braved the local Spanish transport system. I had no idea which stop it was or how far I had to go. I just went on and trusted my instinct. If I got lost; well hey, it would be its own little adventure.

Luckily I did get off at the right bus stop and followed my nose on which way the beach would be and before I knew it, I was taking off my shoes and digging my toes into the sand. I couldn't swim because my new tattoo was healing, but I walked up and down the beach, dipping my toes into the warm water, wondering how in God's name did I actually manage to land up here.

I am so genuinely lucky and grateful for my parents. Without support from home, I would never be brave enough to even begin to think about traveling on my own. Thanks Mommy. Thanks Daddy. <3

I really liked this. It was above the entrance to my hostel.

By the time I landed in Valencia I was physically and mentally exhausted. My ridiculously heavy luggage and the constant traveling was getting to me, so I decided to just relax and enjoy the scenery I happened to come across; neither free walking tours, nor huge galavants. I did get lost a few times and that was a nice way of seeing things that I would never have normally seen.

Valencia is such a beautiful city. The vibe is quite different to the other Spanish cities I visited but in a way that makes you want to get to know the city a bit better. I will have to go back and learn more about the place.

The cute little alley that lead to my hostel

The view of Valencia from atop the cathedral

My Mishap in Madrid

A mishap is defined as an unlucky accident, which is definitely what I would describe my first couchsurfing experience as. Since starting my life abroad, I have realised how quickly expenses add up when travelling. Accommodation can heavily dent your savings when all you really want is a roof over your head, a warm shower and money in your pocket to do all those touristy things you've been wanting try.

A Spanish New Tork

This is where the idea of couchsurfing comes in.The site connects travellers from all over the world by creating a social media base that allows people to meet, whether you're a local or a foreigner. Locals can host travellers for a night or two on their couch. 

I distrusted this concept immediately. What kind of person allows a random stranger to stay in their home for nothing in return? It seemed an idea that was idealistically great but in this harsh reality we live in, a bit naive and unsafe. 

I was happily surprised though when I went on the website and saw that surfers have to be rated (and therefore trusted) to be considered potential hosts. You can choose who you want to host or decline if you want to; every decision is in your hands, whether you're a host or a surfer.

The scariest fish I have ever seen!

My third stop on my trip around Spain was Madrid. By this time, my accommodation expenses were adding up quite a bit so I decided that I would give couchsurfing a try. My friend Justine is an avid surfer and has had nothing but good experiences. We had a conversation about it before I left, to try and calm my nerves.

Some graffiti in the street

"What if something happens to me?" I said.
"Something can happen in a hostel. That doesn't stop you from going there. Be brave; trust the system and trust your instinct", she replied.
"What system?" I asked.
"Couchsurfing; the system of strangers connecting and trusting each other", she answered.

This conversation stuck with me and I decided to just take the risk and go for it. Boy, was I in for a surprise! I stayed with a Mexican guy that had a great reputation on the site but I was still nervous to stay with a man. Luckily though, he was hosting a German girl too. Yvonne was my saving grace those few days.

My new favourite hangover remedy:
chocolate and churros

Yvonne was already familiar with the city and took me sightseeing and showed me some really great places that I would never have found by myself, like chocolate and churros! How quickly people can bond when put in certain circumstances. I'd like to go back to Madrid and see more of the city from a cultural perspective; learn more about the city itself.

My host took a particular liking to me though and became quite touchy-feely, which made me feel very uncomfortable. I became quite shy and introvert in his presence. How do you tell someone you don't want anything sexual with them when they are allowing you to sleep on their couch for two nights? I honestly did not know how to handle the situation. Thankfully, with Yvonne around, he didn't come onto me too often and we decided to spend our last night at a hostel. I'm really happy we met.

After my stay, I wrote a reference for his profile so that other surfers can know that, although many people wrote positive reviews, I am one of the few that did not have a great time with him. Every reference on CS is important. It allows others to better decide if they want to meet with the person in question.

Yvonne and myself in the main plaza

Trust is something so difficult to attain; to willingly rely on someone and to abandon our sense of control. CS asks us to trust others like us. "We envision a world made better by travel and travel made better by connection. Couchsurfers share their lives with the people they encounter, fostering cultural exchange and mutual respect."

Meeting strangers on couchsurfing can be a terrifying experience. I have no idea what I would have done without Yvonne. She balanced my negative experience with a positive one. Without CS, I would never have met her and I still want to try it again. Many people are genuinely interested in just helping a person out. Millions of people trust the system and I think that the concept is an amazing way of putting faith in humanity.