Walking like an Egyptian

“Egypt is a great place for contrasts: splendid things gleam in the dust.”

- Gustave Flaubert

Camel ride into the Sahara Desert

We arrived to Cairo at about 8am, after too many hours in a minibus coming from Eilat, Israel. It wouldn't have taken so long but, because we had to bypass the Gaza strip, we had to go out of our way to reach the capital of Egypt. I decided not to wear a watch on the trip and with my phone packed away, I wasn't exactly sure of the time but the sky (and the air itself) still had that sleepy feel to it; when the colours we see are a dim shade of their brighter midday self. As the Museum of Cairo opened, we entered; grateful to enter before the long lines started.

Just chilling with Sphinx. No biggie

Travelling to a country that is recovering from a revolution means that it wise to travel with a company. Our guided tour included many things; we had an armed escort where ever we went for example. Our entourage was made up of 3 tourists, our guide, our driver and the policeman. My friend and I were travelling together from Palestine but the other girl had come alone, a Peruvian girl who had basic English. We decided that it was probably a good opportunity to practice our Spanish with her. Little did we know that we would only be speaking in Spanish for the next two days! Our wonderful guide, Nasser, could speak some Spanish too, and because we were such a tiny group, he tried to compensate for us as much as he could, and when he wasn't able to, we would try pick up the slack. My brain was dead by the end of that trip. Not speaking in my mother tongue in a foreign country that doesn't even speak that language? Not an easy feat! But we managed just fine :)

An eye-sore reminder of the revolution

Signs of the revolution were everywhere. A blackened shell of what was once a government building was right next to the museum. During the riots in 2011, that particular building was targeted because it belonged to Mubarak's political party. Other signs of the revolution is how quiet the tourist sites are and the military spotted around. Vendors said that what they are making now has more than halved since after the rebellion took place. When you whole income is invested in the tourist trade, that can devastate your way of life, but Nasser told us that Cairo is slowly making its come back as a tourist destination.


Poverty haunts the streets of the city. Coming from the opposite side of the continent, I expected the city to be a twin to Johannesburg; Jozi being a city knowing both wealth and destitution. It is not though. In many ways, I find this city extremely difficult to write about because I experienced one of the happiest days of my life there but, at the exact same time, it was a rude awakening as to how so many live. I equate most cities to a beehive; everyone busy doing their own little work, making the city function in perfect harmony. Cairo is an anthill. With a population of about 7 million, that's not really surprising, however the way the city runs is nothing like I've ever seen before. Somehow it works though, with every resident making the city the unique place it is. Either way though, I have so many things to say that I cannot hesitate at trying to explain myself to the best of my ability.

The Pyramids of Giza

After the museum, we made our way to the 3 Pyramids Papyrus Institute where, I'm ashamed to say, I fell into the tourist trap and bought a lovely Egyptian calendar that I have no idea how to interpret but looks just gorgeous and a little alluring on my wall. Being on a guided tour means that you are taken to these kinds of places that you would not otherwise stop at. I don't usually buy grand souvenirs like that, but my will went away with me. YOLO, you know? I am the worst when it comes to falling prey to a charming salesman. That's probably why I bought 3 bottles of famous Egyptian essence that I honestly don't need, but was insistent on buying while I was there. It doesn't help that everyone is so friendly and hospitable.

Arabic culture demands a show of generous hospitality. Nasser told us, "You are free to choose, but not to refuse." I was overwhelmed by how kind and giving these people are. It is part of their custom; it is a matter of honour and duty. I have had my fair share of adventures and my guard is always up as is needed for a solo female traveller. Yet I was treated with unexpected  respect and kindness everywhere I went in the Middle East, even as I dressed as conservatively as possible to avoid disrespect and unwanted attention; I was never made to feel that way.

First glimpse of the pyramids through the hazy pollution

We finally made our way to the pyramids! The moment we had been patiently waiting for. And what an awesome spectacle it was. Now, I say 'awesome' in truest meaning of the word; I was in awe. I first laid my eyes upon them from across the city while in the bus. Because the air is so polluted, we only got a hazy glimpse of them. When we eventually reached them, we could only simply gaze at their majesty. They are bigger than you expect. You can't climb the stones easily; steps have been made for tourists to climb onto the structures. As you stand on the golden blocks, which were once covered by smooth white limestone, you can sincerely believe that each took about 20 years to be built.

My scarf was always around my shoulders

There are 6 pyramids in Giza, which lie on the outskirts of Cairo and the three great pyramids there, are the most famous of them all, being the largest of roughly 160 ancient Egyptian tombs that have been found. The 3 great pyramids, and 3 lesser, sit right up against the city. To get those wonderful picturesque photos, you have to ride on a camel into the Sahara Desert and look back to see them at a distance. Riding a camel is not easy, let me tell you. You think it's like riding a horse. No. They are lovable creatures though, albeit a tad smelly. As I got the rhythm of the animal's gait, I was able to appreciate that this was a way of life. Plus, that was just another thing I could tick off my very long bucket list. This holiday was proving to be very successful in terms of fulfilling my dreams.

Access to the Sphinx has lessened over the years

After we took in our fill of the view of the pyramids, we had to pay our respects to another famous monument; the Great Sphinx of Giza. The regal monolith looks onto the modern city, with a few of Pizza Hut and KFC; a paradox if I ever saw one. Missing its nose and beard, he is often mistaken for a she, as legend states in Greek mythology. It was a lot smaller than I expected, standing only 20m high and yet it still the biggest monolith of its kind. I suppose that having this mysterious, imposing image in your mind is always grander and more spectacular than what reality delivers. But that being said, by no means was seeing the Sphinx any sort of disappointment. On the contrary, it was the perfect way to end our first day in Egypt.

Day one concluded by falling asleep in our lovely hotel by 9pm, listening to the cacophony of hoots and beeps from the cars and taxis on the main road below. Exhaustion overwhelmed us and sleep came easily. Going on a sightseeing holiday does that to a person; the actual travelling part of travelling is taxing. Over the next few days we napped where we could, fighting to maintain sufficient energy for the adventures that that day held. But those are stories for another day...

A beautiful Egyptian winter's day

Holiday in the Holy Land

“Jerusalem is a port city on the shore of eternity.”

- Yehuda Amichai 

Looking over Temple Mount

I found myself  upon entering the Old City, on the morning of Christmas Day, via Damascus Gate, one of seven (and main) entrances which lead into the walled area that separates the Old City from modern Jerusalem. I had no preconceptions of what to expect, not wanting to be disappointed or amazed by what I saw. This was my attitude for the next few days as I travelled a little around the Middle East. And let me just tell you, dear reader, that I was so surprised, by so many different things. 

Damascus Gate

Jerusalem is home to the three major Abrahamic religions, meaning the religions that stem from the story of Abraham from back in the good old days where people were asked to sacrifice their sons and chat with burning bushes. Judaism, Islam and Christianity are considered western religions but primarily, they all share the patriarchal story of Abraham. (Why they have so many problems when they've all got the same dad, I don't know.)

The city is divided into 4 uneven quarters: Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. On Christmas Day I visited the most famous sites that Jerusalem is renowned for.

The Muslim Quarter
As we went through Damascus Gate, we entered the Muslim Quarter. With children playing in the streets and tourists taking photos and absorbing the beautiful sites (I include myself in that sentiment), we made our way to the top of the Austrian Hospice, a pilgrim hostel. Entrance is free and people go to the roof to take incredible photos of the panoramic views of Temple Mount and Damascus Gate. Probably the cities most iconic landmark lies on Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock. It is Islam's oldest example of Islamic architecture. Temple Mount itself though, has significance for all three religions and has been used as a religious site for thousands of years.

Panoramic view from the roof of the Austrian Hospice

The Jewish Quarter
As we made our way towards the Jewish area of the city, it became quite noticeable. The whole vibe of the alleys change, not exactly something you can put your finger on but is  subtly evident if you look for it; the food and types of souvenirs that are sold, etc.

The Jewish Quarter holds the Western Wall; the holiest site for people of the Jewish faith as it is the only part of the original temple that was destroyed (where Temple Mount stands now) as Jerusalem was invaded and conquered over and over as the multitude of years went by. Jews, and other non-Muslims, are not allowed to pray openly on Temple Mount as it is controlled by the Muslims. This makes the western wall is the most sacred place to engage in public prayer.

The wall is separated for men and women and, as is normal for all holy sites, it is integral to dress modestly. I noticed that people were walking backwards from the wall; it is customary, as followers of the faith do not want to turn their back on it and therefore, show any disrespect to the sanctity to the holy place.

As you walk closer to the wall you see that every nook and cranny is filled with tiny prayer notes. It a centuries old tradition and the wall is cleared only twice a year where they are buried on the Mount of Olives, another place of reverence in Jerusalem. As I'm not at all religious but wanted to show my respect, I didn't get too close to the wall; not wanting to interrupt others. With so many people pressed up against the facade, and wanting to leave to see the other parts of the city, we moved towards the Christian Quarter.








The Christian Quarter
As it was Christmas Day, I expected there to be a mass of people but there weren't; Bethlehem being the place of choice (better to celebrate at the place of Jesus' birth than the site of his death, I guess). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is venerated to be where he was crucified and buried. The church is separated and controlled by different factions of the Christian kingdom. For example, the Greek Orthodox section is decorated completely different to the Armenian Orthodox section.

Graffiti on the door of the Christian church

My family is quite religious, so for my grandmothers, I went to the Altar of Crucifixion and, like so many before and will after me, I went on my knees to put my hands on the spot which marks where the cross once stood. Even for a non-believer like myself, it was a humbling experience; to say that I stood in a place where a man was killed and changed the world from what it was to what it is now.
 I didn't pay much mind to the modern city, only to travel in between Palestine, Egypt and Jordan (as you can't go anywhere from within the West Bank). From what I did see though, the city is modern, a metropolis like any other in Europe except for the fact that everywhere is a ghost town on Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest. 

I've always wanted to visit Jerusalem but now that I think about it, I'm not even sure why. I'm not particularly religious and my knowledge of the city was next to nothing. All that being said though, I'm really glad I went. Without realising the significance, my whole journey to the Middle East was eye-opening and self-expanding. What do I mean by that? "A mind, once stretched by a new idea, cannot return to its original dimensions." All that I learnt while I was there, about the political situation, about different cultures and about myself, has changed me somehow. Like a character in a video game, I've levelled up. Feels good :)

Bunting's Map of the World depicting at the centre.

Italian Conversations and the Kindness of Strangers

Florence

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy”

- Giuseppe Verdi

It was that time of year: Easter, which means only one thing in my book... Holiday! What is a travel hungry girl like myself to do but find a new adventure. And what better place to do that in than in the land of pizza, pasta and gelato!

Deciding to go to Italy for Easter seemed a little crazy. I could have stayed in Murcia; the city celebrates Bando de la Huerta after Semana Santa - a very popular celebration in the region which is part of the spring festivities. Instead I took the opportunity to travel and what better way to do that than by going to Italia.

Travelling alone has not felt daunting for the longest time but something I crave as you meet so many interesting people this way. Without the comfort of friends, you're forced out of your comfort zone to meet new people. I found myself having the sweetest conversations in the most arbitrary of circumstances.

Milan

Duomo di Milano

My second attempt at Couchsurfing was quite successful. Putting faith into a system that had let me down in the past was intimidating but that night I met such captivating people. Our host had 5 surfers that night and we were quite a mix of people too; a South African, a Belgian, a Thai and two Latvians. After being kicked to the curb at 7 in the morning, we spent a cold Milano morning together. With coffee running through our veins and our hearts set in different directions, we went our separate ways.

Venice

The highlight of seeing this city weren't the famous canals or magnificently made Venetian masks but an enjoyable 15 minute conversation I had with a lovely old man; a mask maker. In one of the side streets, I walked into a mask shop, completely in awe of the quality and artistry of each of the wares displayed. In an entertaining combination of Italian, Spanish and English, we spoke of his life as an artist and how outrageous it was of me to come to Venice alone. "No boyfriend? But why? You are so pretty." Suffice it to say that in true Italian fashion, this delightful man charmed me through and through and I left his shop smiling.



Florence
My favourite stop. The city is absolutely magical and left the biggest impression on my heart. I wish I could have stayed there longer but at least the time spent there was memorable. I struck up a conversation with another girl that was also doing the free walking tour alone. And just like that, I had made a new friend. That's the most wonderful thing about travelling though; meeting amazing people that are on a similar journey to you. Epi is from Argentina and I would never have met her otherwise. And I am so happy that I did.

The view from the top of the Basilica in Florence

Pisa
It was time I made way back to Milan to catch my flight back to Barcelona. Fortunately I had a pit stop in Pisa. Epi and I decided to meet up again to see the leaning tower. I have such good memories of laughter and smiles with a soul that I had known for less than 3 days. Travelling. "A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles."



Bergamo
The end of my holiday was definitely an experience. Alone in Bergamo in the dead of night with no phone, no money nor a place to stay. I had expected to spend the night in the train station as I had done in other cities but Bergamo's train station was under construction. Between that, the bus station and every shop and restaurant closed, being harrassed by over-friendly, drunk Italian men, as well it being a cold April night, I was at my wit's end by the time I found a hotel.

The first hotel wouldn't let me in (as I mentioned, I had no money left after travelling for a week in very expensive Italy) so by the time I found this one, I was on the verge of despair. I didn't want to spend the next few hours on the street. I asked the receptionist if it would be alright if I just sat in the farthest chair in the lobby, out of sight from anyone that would see me, although it was completely empty and remained that way until 5 am. "No", he sternly replied. That was it for me. Tears started to fall. He asked me what my problem was. I proceeded to tell him about my night before he cut me short and told me to take a seat and not move. Never have I been so grateful in my life!

This man was short and blunt with me and pretended I didn't exist for 4 hours while I sat in a chair and did not make a sound; dozing when exhaustion took me. The fact that he let me stay was a true act of kindness; the hotel was 4 stars. He let an unpaying, ragged-looking foreigner into his hotel at the risk of his job. My faith in humanity restored.

My bus was at 6 in the morning but I offered to leave an hour early so as to make sure no one saw me in his hotel but he refused and told me to stay until it was a safer hour for me to leave. When it was, he showed me where the restroom was so I could freshen up and gave me some fruit to take with me. The rest of my journey home was long but sailed smoothly. Thanks to this man, this stranger, I was able to go home feeling safe and say that, although this vacation had a few bumps in the road, I had an amazing trip. Thank you sir.

Upon reflection, Italy didn't leave me with conventional memories of beautiful sites or feelings of wistfulness. Instead, I gained moments of clarity; both in positive and negative circumstances. That's what travelling does to the soul. It teaches you to appreciate everything that comes into your life and how to roll with the punches.

Florence

Castles and Beaches

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time."

Marthe Troly-Curtin

One of the best things about Spain is definitely how I spend my weekends. I arrived in Murcia at the end of summer and it was still blazing hot, so my friends and I decided to spend our days at the beach. The city is an hour or so away from the coast by bus. Every weekend we decided to venture to different beaches. Alicante was one of the main places we decided to go to.

Alicante is an old city and historic port in the east of the country. When you arrive at the train station you immediately feel that holiday vibe that you look for when spending the day at the beach. Although the city has been around for hundreds of years, it is modern and vibrant with many things to do and see.

What attracted us most comes down to two things: the awesome beach and the Castle of Santa Barbara that sits atop the mountain, Mount Benacantil, overlooking the entire city.

The castle overlooks the port

The bus stop is right next to the port. It's about a ten minute walk to the main beach. Along the way, I was bombarded by sound; adusting my hearing to other languages. Alicante is a hot tourist destination for many Europeans. I heard German, Polish, Dutch and English more than I heard any Spanish. Living in Murcia, not much English is spoken so it was quite nice listening to my native tongue outside my circle of friends but also a bit annoying because I prefer listening to Spanish when I'm out and about.

Wandering the streets

The beach is very crowded. Unless you're looking for that kind of buzz, I would avoid this part of the coast and travel further south. As it is everywhere in Meditteranean, the water is a gorgeous teal blue with palm trees and white sands.





The first thing you notice about Alicante is the castle on the top of the hill. The Castle of Santa Barbara dates back to Muslim control but is named as such after the capturing of the city on the feast day of Saint Barbara by Castilian forces. Not quite who those guys are but okay, job well done.





We got a bit lost trying to find our way to the entrance of the mountain so we found some typical Mediterranean homes up against the side of the mountain with the most amazing view of the sea. There's nothing better than losing your way in a new city and stumbling upon something you would never have found otherwise. I think that's my favourite thing about travelling.

 It's been open to the public in recent years but at one what time it was used as a prison.



The view of the city is quite astounding. All of Alicante can be seen; a full 360 degree view.


When summer returns I'll definitely be spending more Sundays at the beach in Alicante. In the meantime though, I'd like to go back to see more of the city itself. I've yet find its countless hidden treasures.

We saw the most amazing sunsets
on the way down the mountain

Hola Barcelona!

People say that once you travel, you're never quite the same and I didn't realise how true that statement is until I arrived at Johannesburg International and felt this wave of surrealism wash over me. Did I really just spend nine, life changing months in Europe? Did I really see all those beautiful cities? This summer I spent my holiday in South Africa after teaching for a few months in Poland. It was great coming home and seeing all my loved ones. Two months flew by and before I knew it I had found a new teaching post in Spain. And this is where my new adventure begins...

The intersection at Universitat Metro

The view on the way
to Park Guell

I started off with a two week trip travelling through the country; not knowing a word of Spanish or anything about the culture itself. Looking back now, I'm surprised at how unprepared I was in moving to a new country, but oh well! All's well that ends well. My first stop was beautiful Barcelona.

Graffiti is permitted only
on the doors of buildings

My first impression of Barcelona, from the airport to the city, was how much I was going to like living in this country, and second; how much the scenery reminded me of home. Spain has this rough wildness about it that looks untouched. I'm not talking about palm trees and sandy beaches, but the desert element that encompasses parts of the land.

It is home to one of the most popular football clubs, FC Barca, as well to the Catalonian community. From Picasso to Gaudi, interesting history to outrageous parties, from beaches to museums; it seems that this famous city has it all. Lonely Planet dubbed it "a mix of sunny Meditteranean charm and European urban style", which seems to fit this metropolis quite aptly.

There are so many amazing sights in this city, but four days were not enough to touch and feel and see everything. I think that some cities need a proper amount of time to really explore what it has to offer. Four days is enough just to touch the surface; see the obvious tourist attractions.

Me in front of the Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia is a large, unfinished church that was designed by famous architect, Antoni Gaudi. His work is evident throughout the city and his name is glorified in architecture and art alike. He died before building was completed and is still being built to this day; cranes tower over its highest peak. I didn't go inside, even though I had planned to. It rained that day and I wasn't willing to stand in the queue for hours but I can just imagine how amazing it must be.






Park Guell is a large tourist magnet for Gaudi fans too. It is a garden complex with architectural elements situated on a hill that overlooks the whole city. I found myself wondering around and thinking that Gaudi had a keen eye for finding the beautiful balance between nature and mankind. The focal points of the park are the mosaic salamander and the undulating wave that creates a long bench with enclaves to sit and socialise. Gaudi incorporated a lot of mosaic into his art, which adds splashes of colour to his structures.

The view from Park Guell

A lot of people are drawn to one of Barcelona's most famous streets; La Rambla. This busy, yet lively pedestrian boulevard is dotted with cafes and restaurants, kiosks and news stands; a street that never seems to sleep. A famous street market called La Boqueria is a prominent landmark on La Rambla and should definitely be visited. It has a vast array of foods that pique your appetite.

The port at sunset

Christopher Columbus
monument

The port is an amazing place to walk around at sunset. The city and hills on one side with the hundreds of yachts on the other; it seems to be the place that attracts locals and tourists alike for a relaxed evening out. The monument of Christopher Columbus, a 60m column, can be found at the harbour at the lower end of La Rambla.

Barcelona is a city that seems to suck you in and never wants to you let go. People love it or hate it but everyone has an opinion, which in itself is impressive. I happened to love it and I will definitely return, just like a love sick bee wanders aimlessly until eventually it finds its way back to its beautiful exotic flower.

The interior of the church Santa Del Mar

Blog Virgin

Although I've written in a journal for the majority of my young life, I never thought of sharing my experiences publically. I scorned the average person for starting their own blog because, honestly, what did the average person have to say? Nothing, I thought, until I moved abroad and decided to keep the important people uptodate with my comings and goings. This is when I realised how blogging can benefit anyone. 

I have found a passion in travelling and other life-changing musings and so I've have decided to combine it with my joy of writing, into a blog for anyone who is interested in knowing what a young South African can get up to.

Wide-eyed and fancy free, I will travel this world; all the discovering what life has to offer and learning from my mistakes along the way.

C'est la vie!