Holiday in the Holy Land

“Jerusalem is a port city on the shore of eternity.”

- Yehuda Amichai 

Looking over Temple Mount

I found myself  upon entering the Old City, on the morning of Christmas Day, via Damascus Gate, one of seven (and main) entrances which lead into the walled area that separates the Old City from modern Jerusalem. I had no preconceptions of what to expect, not wanting to be disappointed or amazed by what I saw. This was my attitude for the next few days as I travelled a little around the Middle East. And let me just tell you, dear reader, that I was so surprised, by so many different things. 

Damascus Gate

Jerusalem is home to the three major Abrahamic religions, meaning the religions that stem from the story of Abraham from back in the good old days where people were asked to sacrifice their sons and chat with burning bushes. Judaism, Islam and Christianity are considered western religions but primarily, they all share the patriarchal story of Abraham. (Why they have so many problems when they've all got the same dad, I don't know.)

The city is divided into 4 uneven quarters: Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. On Christmas Day I visited the most famous sites that Jerusalem is renowned for.

The Muslim Quarter
As we went through Damascus Gate, we entered the Muslim Quarter. With children playing in the streets and tourists taking photos and absorbing the beautiful sites (I include myself in that sentiment), we made our way to the top of the Austrian Hospice, a pilgrim hostel. Entrance is free and people go to the roof to take incredible photos of the panoramic views of Temple Mount and Damascus Gate. Probably the cities most iconic landmark lies on Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock. It is Islam's oldest example of Islamic architecture. Temple Mount itself though, has significance for all three religions and has been used as a religious site for thousands of years.

Panoramic view from the roof of the Austrian Hospice

The Jewish Quarter
As we made our way towards the Jewish area of the city, it became quite noticeable. The whole vibe of the alleys change, not exactly something you can put your finger on but is  subtly evident if you look for it; the food and types of souvenirs that are sold, etc.

The Jewish Quarter holds the Western Wall; the holiest site for people of the Jewish faith as it is the only part of the original temple that was destroyed (where Temple Mount stands now) as Jerusalem was invaded and conquered over and over as the multitude of years went by. Jews, and other non-Muslims, are not allowed to pray openly on Temple Mount as it is controlled by the Muslims. This makes the western wall is the most sacred place to engage in public prayer.

The wall is separated for men and women and, as is normal for all holy sites, it is integral to dress modestly. I noticed that people were walking backwards from the wall; it is customary, as followers of the faith do not want to turn their back on it and therefore, show any disrespect to the sanctity to the holy place.

As you walk closer to the wall you see that every nook and cranny is filled with tiny prayer notes. It a centuries old tradition and the wall is cleared only twice a year where they are buried on the Mount of Olives, another place of reverence in Jerusalem. As I'm not at all religious but wanted to show my respect, I didn't get too close to the wall; not wanting to interrupt others. With so many people pressed up against the facade, and wanting to leave to see the other parts of the city, we moved towards the Christian Quarter.








The Christian Quarter
As it was Christmas Day, I expected there to be a mass of people but there weren't; Bethlehem being the place of choice (better to celebrate at the place of Jesus' birth than the site of his death, I guess). The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is venerated to be where he was crucified and buried. The church is separated and controlled by different factions of the Christian kingdom. For example, the Greek Orthodox section is decorated completely different to the Armenian Orthodox section.

Graffiti on the door of the Christian church

My family is quite religious, so for my grandmothers, I went to the Altar of Crucifixion and, like so many before and will after me, I went on my knees to put my hands on the spot which marks where the cross once stood. Even for a non-believer like myself, it was a humbling experience; to say that I stood in a place where a man was killed and changed the world from what it was to what it is now.
 I didn't pay much mind to the modern city, only to travel in between Palestine, Egypt and Jordan (as you can't go anywhere from within the West Bank). From what I did see though, the city is modern, a metropolis like any other in Europe except for the fact that everywhere is a ghost town on Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest. 

I've always wanted to visit Jerusalem but now that I think about it, I'm not even sure why. I'm not particularly religious and my knowledge of the city was next to nothing. All that being said though, I'm really glad I went. Without realising the significance, my whole journey to the Middle East was eye-opening and self-expanding. What do I mean by that? "A mind, once stretched by a new idea, cannot return to its original dimensions." All that I learnt while I was there, about the political situation, about different cultures and about myself, has changed me somehow. Like a character in a video game, I've levelled up. Feels good :)

Bunting's Map of the World depicting at the centre.