Walking like an Egyptian

“Egypt is a great place for contrasts: splendid things gleam in the dust.”

- Gustave Flaubert

Camel ride into the Sahara Desert

We arrived to Cairo at about 8am, after too many hours in a minibus coming from Eilat, Israel. It wouldn't have taken so long but, because we had to bypass the Gaza strip, we had to go out of our way to reach the capital of Egypt. I decided not to wear a watch on the trip and with my phone packed away, I wasn't exactly sure of the time but the sky (and the air itself) still had that sleepy feel to it; when the colours we see are a dim shade of their brighter midday self. As the Museum of Cairo opened, we entered; grateful to enter before the long lines started.

Just chilling with Sphinx. No biggie

Travelling to a country that is recovering from a revolution means that it wise to travel with a company. Our guided tour included many things; we had an armed escort where ever we went for example. Our entourage was made up of 3 tourists, our guide, our driver and the policeman. My friend and I were travelling together from Palestine but the other girl had come alone, a Peruvian girl who had basic English. We decided that it was probably a good opportunity to practice our Spanish with her. Little did we know that we would only be speaking in Spanish for the next two days! Our wonderful guide, Nasser, could speak some Spanish too, and because we were such a tiny group, he tried to compensate for us as much as he could, and when he wasn't able to, we would try pick up the slack. My brain was dead by the end of that trip. Not speaking in my mother tongue in a foreign country that doesn't even speak that language? Not an easy feat! But we managed just fine :)

An eye-sore reminder of the revolution

Signs of the revolution were everywhere. A blackened shell of what was once a government building was right next to the museum. During the riots in 2011, that particular building was targeted because it belonged to Mubarak's political party. Other signs of the revolution is how quiet the tourist sites are and the military spotted around. Vendors said that what they are making now has more than halved since after the rebellion took place. When you whole income is invested in the tourist trade, that can devastate your way of life, but Nasser told us that Cairo is slowly making its come back as a tourist destination.


Poverty haunts the streets of the city. Coming from the opposite side of the continent, I expected the city to be a twin to Johannesburg; Jozi being a city knowing both wealth and destitution. It is not though. In many ways, I find this city extremely difficult to write about because I experienced one of the happiest days of my life there but, at the exact same time, it was a rude awakening as to how so many live. I equate most cities to a beehive; everyone busy doing their own little work, making the city function in perfect harmony. Cairo is an anthill. With a population of about 7 million, that's not really surprising, however the way the city runs is nothing like I've ever seen before. Somehow it works though, with every resident making the city the unique place it is. Either way though, I have so many things to say that I cannot hesitate at trying to explain myself to the best of my ability.

The Pyramids of Giza

After the museum, we made our way to the 3 Pyramids Papyrus Institute where, I'm ashamed to say, I fell into the tourist trap and bought a lovely Egyptian calendar that I have no idea how to interpret but looks just gorgeous and a little alluring on my wall. Being on a guided tour means that you are taken to these kinds of places that you would not otherwise stop at. I don't usually buy grand souvenirs like that, but my will went away with me. YOLO, you know? I am the worst when it comes to falling prey to a charming salesman. That's probably why I bought 3 bottles of famous Egyptian essence that I honestly don't need, but was insistent on buying while I was there. It doesn't help that everyone is so friendly and hospitable.

Arabic culture demands a show of generous hospitality. Nasser told us, "You are free to choose, but not to refuse." I was overwhelmed by how kind and giving these people are. It is part of their custom; it is a matter of honour and duty. I have had my fair share of adventures and my guard is always up as is needed for a solo female traveller. Yet I was treated with unexpected  respect and kindness everywhere I went in the Middle East, even as I dressed as conservatively as possible to avoid disrespect and unwanted attention; I was never made to feel that way.

First glimpse of the pyramids through the hazy pollution

We finally made our way to the pyramids! The moment we had been patiently waiting for. And what an awesome spectacle it was. Now, I say 'awesome' in truest meaning of the word; I was in awe. I first laid my eyes upon them from across the city while in the bus. Because the air is so polluted, we only got a hazy glimpse of them. When we eventually reached them, we could only simply gaze at their majesty. They are bigger than you expect. You can't climb the stones easily; steps have been made for tourists to climb onto the structures. As you stand on the golden blocks, which were once covered by smooth white limestone, you can sincerely believe that each took about 20 years to be built.

My scarf was always around my shoulders

There are 6 pyramids in Giza, which lie on the outskirts of Cairo and the three great pyramids there, are the most famous of them all, being the largest of roughly 160 ancient Egyptian tombs that have been found. The 3 great pyramids, and 3 lesser, sit right up against the city. To get those wonderful picturesque photos, you have to ride on a camel into the Sahara Desert and look back to see them at a distance. Riding a camel is not easy, let me tell you. You think it's like riding a horse. No. They are lovable creatures though, albeit a tad smelly. As I got the rhythm of the animal's gait, I was able to appreciate that this was a way of life. Plus, that was just another thing I could tick off my very long bucket list. This holiday was proving to be very successful in terms of fulfilling my dreams.

Access to the Sphinx has lessened over the years

After we took in our fill of the view of the pyramids, we had to pay our respects to another famous monument; the Great Sphinx of Giza. The regal monolith looks onto the modern city, with a few of Pizza Hut and KFC; a paradox if I ever saw one. Missing its nose and beard, he is often mistaken for a she, as legend states in Greek mythology. It was a lot smaller than I expected, standing only 20m high and yet it still the biggest monolith of its kind. I suppose that having this mysterious, imposing image in your mind is always grander and more spectacular than what reality delivers. But that being said, by no means was seeing the Sphinx any sort of disappointment. On the contrary, it was the perfect way to end our first day in Egypt.

Day one concluded by falling asleep in our lovely hotel by 9pm, listening to the cacophony of hoots and beeps from the cars and taxis on the main road below. Exhaustion overwhelmed us and sleep came easily. Going on a sightseeing holiday does that to a person; the actual travelling part of travelling is taxing. Over the next few days we napped where we could, fighting to maintain sufficient energy for the adventures that that day held. But those are stories for another day...

A beautiful Egyptian winter's day